DMS have just released a chip for the 335i which takes it upto something like 380bhp and 420lbft. That tweaked 3.0l twin turbo is faster day to day driving than the new M3. Can pick up a nice convertible for £25K, used.
It really does depend on just how severe it is. Light ridges and grooves are very common and won't noticeably affect braking performance. As said above - really need a pic to comment.
Periodically, there's a cleaning cycle during which the wire is heated to a very high temperature right after engine shutdown. This burns off deposits. I think what actually happens is that it burns off the oil and leaves a deposit - just like if you burned oil on a fire. And I doubt the MAF type c...
Thanks for all the ideas, I'd never thought about breather pipes being clogged so will check that out at the weekend. ..very easy test for you - remove the dipstick and start the engine. Cover the dipstick hole with your thumb and see if there is any positive pressure there. If there is lots, you h...
Of course, the other possibility is that it is not being burned at all but is simply leaking somewhere. You'd generally always notice this on your driveway though.
I don't think a simple change of oil grade will help a great deal with the amount of oil you are going through.
This just about sums it up (lift from web)... Generally, engines burn oil due to a few reasons. Bad valve seals Worn valve guides Pressurized crankcase (oil pan) due to a clogged PCV valve or breather system Blow-by from worn piston rings Bad valve seals: The valves are located in the cylinder head ...
Don't strip the head off yet, either buy a compression tester (approx £25) or get a garage to do it for you.
Do the test then repeat again with a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder (down sprak plug hole). Record results both times and come back here with your findings so we can advise further.
First up, I was under the impression that a retest within 24 hours of the original test was classed as FOC. After that, a fee can be applied legally. I think that might only be valid if you don't drive the car away from the garage (i.e let them fix it). Bit of a swizz really. I always use the counc...
Even a very modest heater of say 100W would flatten a healthy battery in about 7 hours so it's not really practical unless you are going to have a charger strapped to it as well. You can buy caravan dehumidifiers which work very well for stopping ice on the inside, but even these freeze at about -10...
Qiuite right - it's only the tyre snobs that dismiss them just because they are considered a budget brand. If they actually swallowed their pride and gave them a try they would be eating their words.
Me being me I would always replace the tyre rather than getting it repaired, its not a lot too pay to keep one safe, like Phil and Mike said it really isn't worth risking A repair properly carried out and within the guidelines of distance from the sidewall is perfectly safe. Just my opinion of cour...
Could be a sticky throttle cable or perhaps the throttle position sensor is stuffed. If it's always been that way it might be just a trait of a heavy flywheel.
Lots of alarmist posts on this one :shock: Chances are you have already been driving on it for a good few miles. Tyre construction being what it is, I very much doubt you are at risk of a blowout. My guess is that it will have punctured the tyre so I wouldn't remove it if I were you. I don't buy the...
EWS will be the immobiliser so I'm sure it will be that stopping the car firing. Sounds like a stealer job to me - they will need to re-sync the EWS module to the main ECU. The software might have got corrupt somehow?? Worth a battery disconnect for 5 mins and reconnect to see if it sorts it. Might ...
Head gasket failure is very rare on these cars. You would be unlucky indeed if that was the problem - I'd make sure you get a good diagnoses before replacing.