zroadster.net

Greetings from Finland. Im going to need some help from you real enthusiasts with my new bimmer. Its -99 Z3M which I bought with broken engine. Ex-owners daughter had driven it when it leaked the water out from the worn waterpump. Didnt stop until it just didn move a bit anymore.. Havent seen that badly overheated engine earlier.. Anyways, I bought used E36 M3 Evo engine from UK and Im now finishing the assembly. Engine is there now and only minor bits are missing. Im trying to do it right at the beginning.

I dont have good pictures of it yet, but heres the picture of it on the sales site:
http://www.nettiauto.com/bmw/z3/3331455

And here at my garage:





After I get the engine done I will do some other things too. I just bought used AC Schnitzer racing suspension package and its on its way to me now. I would like to keep it as original as possible, all I will do is the mods I can easily go back from. I propably will keep on the 19" wheels I have now, and might change the front brakes cause of the silly looks of them. But thats going to be all. As you might see in pics, the front and rear bumper and left rear mudguard colour dont match. Theyr been painted sometime. Im not going to spray whole car, but I will have those repainted by my friend who is pro painter. He promised he can make the colour match.

Few questions:
- how can I find out the options chosen to this car?
- what are these wheels Im having?
- how many of these Dagar Gelb II colour Z3M Roadster have been done?

Thanks in advance, and Ill put some more pictures after Ill get some!

That is one lovely looking ///M you have there. That yellow is sensational.

Glad to see it being nursed back in to life

Great project, I love dakar yellow and so rare with a matching hardtop as well

There were realtively few options available for the Z3m's (in the UK anyway). They were (from memory):

- headlight washers (pre S54)
- side airbags (the door cards will be marked up SRS and have a split in the padding)
- Harmon Kardon sound system (sub grill between seats)
- cruise control
- boot CD changer
- hardtop and hardtop prep kit
- graduated tinted screen (erm its more tinted at the top of the windscreen)

I love yellow...my bikes yellow...kinda wish Id waited and got a yellow Z instead myself sometimes.

Here are some pics of the engine change. I took the broken engine away in pieces, but the new went in with gearbox. It was very tight! I had to take air pump, crank pulley and belt tensioner. The headers should have been off, but theyr so difficult to attach when engine is in its place so I wanted to put them with the engine. I think I wouldnt do it next time, I got some scratches at the body cause of them, but its possible for sure.

When I bought the car the previous owner had started dismantling the engine. I cant figure out these, could somebody help me?

These were in the same plastic bag, are these from Z3 or what?

The flower shaped thing looks like one of the protectors that go on the legs of the hardtop when it is off the car. The hinge is from the top lid of the central storage box behind the seats. Not sure about the slotted cylinder.

Cheers R.

Thanks for info. I should have two of those "flowers"? And the hinge, should I have two of those for the lid? They had put subwoofers on the lid.. What you think, where should those plastic screws be at? Or the pipe with open side?

Marko

Yes, there ought to be two flowers, one for each leg of the hardtop. Similarly there should be two hinges as well. I don't recognise the screws - there should be two bolts for the bottom of the hinge (the square lugs are threaded) and two screws for the top, but there are quite short. Someone else might know what the slotted tube is.

BTW the hinges are the ones for a non-rollhoop car. Read this thread to find out what needs to be changed to fit hoops.

Cheers R.

I cannot find part number for fuel fill in flap "bump" stop? I believe Im missing a small rubber bump stop cause the flap goes 5-8mm too deep and theres nothing between the steel parts. I tried from realoem.com for 45minutes but cannot find the part..

Also, Im interested on updating my stereos to original Harman Kardon system, is there somewhere instructions for what I must find and what must be changed. The realoem is very usefull but if somebody has done it and documented it, it would be great help.

Marko

131 wrote:I cannot find part number for fuel fill in flap "bump" stop? I believe Im missing a small rubber bump stop cause the flap goes 5-8mm too deep and theres nothing between the steel parts. I tried from realoem.com for 45minutes but cannot find the part..

Part #6 on this diagram, I think:


Side panel/tail trim - BMW parts catalog

Cheers R.

Thanks! Im getting a pretty list of screws and nuts to be ordered! Trying really to return this car to its original shape. Well, propably I will live with the wheels. BTW, I found out what they are, ASA ZR1 is the brand. Made in Japan by BBS license and what I heard theyr nice quality wheels.

http://www.gewe.de/html/gutachten/frontpage.htm
http://www.gewe.de/neu/

Marko

Damn, I got the engine running yesterday, finally. But, it kept terrible rattle-sound.... It was getting worse and worse I work as paramedic so ofcourse I do have stethoscope in my garage, I started lookin for the place the sound comes. It wasnt Vanoses, not the cams, but seemed to come from the front of the engine. I went under the car while it ran, and vóila, waterpump pulley was totally loose I hadnt tightened it properly, luckily it didnt brake anything so far. Then the sound disappeared and the engine runs smooth, very smooth!

But, when the engine is idling, it does shake the body of the car a bit. Like in racecar, like the engine mounts were solid. They are stock though, I think. The engine idles very smoothly so its not misfiring or anything. What you think, does your S50 give the same race idle? And when I rev it, the whole car rotates couple of millimetres, giving powerfull feeling

BTW: if you dont have stethoscope, you better buy one. Only couple of bucks and its really helpfull when finding broken bearings and such. Just listen the alternator, waterpump etc. and you clearly hear which one of them is keeping the whining sound forexample. They dont need to be mechanics stethoscope, though its a bit better.

Marko

Has anyone renewed the fuse-relay box cover? I accidentally broke the large connector plastic bracket, it needs the whole box cover to be replaced.. It seems to be pretty cheap at BMW, about 20€, but im not sure if its possible to change it when the cables are still attached in the car?

Im talking about the part number 1 in the picture

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=61&fg=20

Marko

If it's part #1 you've broken, then it is likely to be a pig to replace, as there is a mass of cable in there, most of it with very little slack in it. I think I'd be inclined to try gluing it first. I'm not quite sure which part of it you've broken - cover to me is just the lid - but from what you describe, you either mean the wiring box (the outside case) or the fuse box (which the fuse trays and relays slot into). Can you post a pic?

Cheers R.

I was going to paint the bumpers, and the left mudguard cause of the wrong colour. Then I noticed few stone hits at the another rear mudguard, so I took if off. Then I thought I better paint the "side entrances" also, to take them off I had to take front mudguards as well. The drivers mirror had some scratches too, so I took it also off. Now I have aproximately half of the car taken to the painter..

Question: the narrow steel sheet between rearbonnet and roof, between rear mudguards. Is it removable? I should paint it also cause its the only part under the parts I have now taken out for paint.

If it is part no: 1 you are talking about, It looks from the picture above that it is removable.

HTH

Edit: Just had a look on my car, there is a row of spot welds in the gutter channel.

Welcome to the forum!

You're like Dr House for z3m roadsters! Hope the heart transplant goes well and look forward to seeing some more photos of the interior etc!

Great looking car and always nice to see a "dead" one brought back to life.

Best of luck,

Dave

Hi 131

I love the colour of the car
Welcome to the forum

Robert T wrote:The flower shaped thing looks like one of the protectors that go on the legs of the hardtop when it is off the car.

Cheers R.

Hi Robert
I've never seen these protectors before , is there a part number for these

Many thnaks
Ray

The engine works perfectly! Have been driving in my homestreet few meters allready. I have to change the front discs and pads, and front AC Schnitzer springs and struts and its ready. Except the painting.. I noticed the spotwelds too, but Im not sure if the part itself is made from two pieces, or if the parts is welded to body.

Well done on getting to the point where it all runs again...

Lets hope we see the finished photos soon so you can get to enjoy all your hard work.

Cheers

The painter is my friend, and is driving in our raceteam. So, I cannot press him very hard.. I just visited today his workshop and they hadnt even started the painting.. Dough!!

I bought AC Schnitzer suspension from Ebay.de. I got the front struts from sodablast and got them painted. I also changed the slides and seals so their like new now. I installed them yesterday and ran in to weird situation. I measured front camber before and it was 1,5deg. After I installed AC Schnitzer Sport (with small diameter springs) struts I found the camber to be 4,5deg. I cannot figure out what is changed that much? I loosened all the bolts and twisted the tire to minimum camber and cannot go less.

Also I found copy of AC Schnitzer suspension alignment guide from this forum, but cannot find it anymore. Could someone help me with it, I remember there was angles for this Sport suspension also.

the M topmounts are offset if you have them the wrong way round this will increase the negative camber?

I noticed eccentrism and for odd reason I thought the arrow stamped on them should point outwards.. It should point frontwards?? Well, I better check it tomorrow.

Yep, that was the problem. Now the camber looks like fine. But, Im still looking for the AC Schnitzer alignment specs. I did see the file in the forum, but cannot find it anymore. Please, gimme link to the page if you can find it.

131 wrote:Yep, that was the problem. Now the camber looks like fine. But, Im still looking for the AC Schnitzer alignment specs. I did see the file in the forum, but cannot find it anymore. Please, gimme link to the page if you can find it.

ACS geometry link (scroll down)


http://www.z3mcoupe.com/forum/showthrea ... ery&page=6

Thats the page Thanks!

BTW, if somebody has corner weight scales for sale and for reasonable price, let me know. I have E30 325i track racer, thats why I need them.

I finally got the painted parts at monday, today at thursday its complete and had it at inspection also. All was fine so Im now cruising with it in +30C! Its really nice ride and the way the engine goes from 800rpm is amazing. Thanks for the all help I got from you people!

Slight problem appeared after inspection, I noticed the ASC/DSC warning light is totally dead. I tried to look the fuses, but cannot find the 50A fuse under the steering wheel area. There is 40A fuse though. I found factory pdf showing all the electrical stuff and the picture show the 50A should be side by side with the 40A but I cannot see it. Though, it could be something else cause the light dont come even after I put the power on. Could it be the bulp from the panel? The switches dont either change their color. I havent driven it so hard that I could say whether ASC/DSC works or not.

Some new pics, taken with my cellular. Will post better later. Paintjob is pretty fine, I need to refurbish the wheels. AC Schnitzer suspension is nice, but rear should be a slightly higher.

Thats a real credit to you for doing all that work. I get stressed putting some chrome in the car in case i mess up The car looks fantastic and i have always loved that colour.