I've had this for few months now but it's been gradually driving me mad - so I'd like to understand what exactly it may be and whether it's a simple task to resolve.
It happens when in very low revs - mainly when taking off coming from the front of the car - could it be a clutch issue?
Any experience with this?
Squeaking Noise at low RPM
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hornel Z3M
- Joined: Sun 16 May, 2004 20:33
- Posts: 1120
- Location: RAGLAN
noise
It could be one of the belts, they get dry in the hot weather and squeak.
It may seem a strange idea,but spray a little WD40 on the business side of the belt(s) with the engine running.I have used this method for eons and no it won't make the belt slip.
Be careful not to get tied up in the pulleys.
If that does not stop the squeak,it isn't the belt(s).
Be careful not to get tied up in the pulleys.
If that does not stop the squeak,it isn't the belt(s).
2000 Topaz 2.8 Individual.
Youth would be more useful if it came later in life!
The drive belts are not mentioned in my BMW service booklet but Bentleys states that belt condition and tension is a Service 2 item.Belts are usually replaced when cracks appear on the driving face which can be seen where the belt is bent around a tensioner or idler pulley which runs on the back of the belt.BenZ3-2.0 wrote:what is the service interval to change belts? I have a squeek i know is the belt when the engine is ticking over. Thought i might just get it changed?
2000 Topaz 2.8 Individual.
Youth would be more useful if it came later in life!
Thanks! going to have a gander under the lid at the belts tonight.Frank.A wrote:It may seem a strange idea,but spray a little WD40 on the business side of the belt(s) with the engine running.I have used this method for eons and no it won't make the belt slip.
Be careful not to get tied up in the pulleys.
If that does not stop the squeak,it isn't the belt(s).
Does your 1.9 have aircon?If so you will have 2 drive belts,one for the aircon and one for the water pump and alternator.Each of these drive belts has a tensioner roller and maybe there will be an additional idler roller near the alternator.
As the pulleys/tensions rotate at different speeds it is sometimes possible to determine which is creating the noise by simply watching and listening.
I would suspect first, either a tensioner or idler roller and then the water pump.
If you are careful and don't touch any rotating parts it is possible to use a long srcewdriver as a stethoscope by placing the blade end at various points on the engine and put your ear on the handle.This can pinpoint the area of the noise.
If you remove the aircon belt that could eliminate one area.
Good Luck and post how you get on.
As the pulleys/tensions rotate at different speeds it is sometimes possible to determine which is creating the noise by simply watching and listening.
I would suspect first, either a tensioner or idler roller and then the water pump.
If you are careful and don't touch any rotating parts it is possible to use a long srcewdriver as a stethoscope by placing the blade end at various points on the engine and put your ear on the handle.This can pinpoint the area of the noise.
If you remove the aircon belt that could eliminate one area.
Good Luck and post how you get on.
2000 Topaz 2.8 Individual.
Youth would be more useful if it came later in life!
It cannot happen when the clutch is down as it's purely when i'm initially movingat very low rpm, i.e being pulled, drive (clutch fully up)Frank.A wrote:Does it occur when you press the clutch pedal down or when the clutch is taking up the drive?
If it's the first it sounds like the release bearing and second,clutch fristion plate.
Does that help?
What mileage has the car done?Have the belts ever been changed?
I would still favour the condition of the belts or belt tension to be the cause.Check the drive side of the belts for cracks where they run around a tensioner or idler roller.
If there are any cracks they need renewing.Belt tension can be checked by twisting the belt on its longest run.You should be able to twist it through about 90degs.
I would still favour the condition of the belts or belt tension to be the cause.Check the drive side of the belts for cracks where they run around a tensioner or idler roller.
If there are any cracks they need renewing.Belt tension can be checked by twisting the belt on its longest run.You should be able to twist it through about 90degs.
2000 Topaz 2.8 Individual.
Youth would be more useful if it came later in life!
Appreciate the help & advice Frank - will check tonightFrank.A wrote:What mileage has the car done?Have the belts ever been changed?
I would still favour the condition of the belts or belt tension to be the cause.Check the drive side of the belts for cracks where they run around a tensioner or idler roller.
If there are any cracks they need renewing.Belt tension can be checked by twisting the belt on its longest run.You should be able to twist it through about 90degs.
kayone wrote:Appreciate the help & advice Frank - will check tonightFrank.A wrote:What mileage has the car done?Have the belts ever been changed?
I would still favour the condition of the belts or belt tension to be the cause.Check the drive side of the belts for cracks where they run around a tensioner or idler roller.
If there are any cracks they need renewing.Belt tension can be checked by twisting the belt on its longest run.You should be able to twist it through about 90degs.
Update.. tried some more WD40 isn't cutting it I dont think as it't still highly audible when initially pulling off.
Checked the tightness seems fairly tight to be fair the thicker belt on the right the belt of the left which i assume is the AC seems a little looser.
Maybe time for a change? (113k miles) Not sure when it was changed last.
Sounds like it's time to take it in, a good garage should diagnose it easily.
First though, as it only happens when the car is moving slowly it's worth checking the brake / handbrake pads are not sticking and rubbing slightly, you often only hear them squeal at very low speed.
Try jacking up each wheel in turn and spinning, it's worth doing this occasionally to check for rubbing, saves on petrol, brake pads and discs.
Good luck.
First though, as it only happens when the car is moving slowly it's worth checking the brake / handbrake pads are not sticking and rubbing slightly, you often only hear them squeal at very low speed.
Try jacking up each wheel in turn and spinning, it's worth doing this occasionally to check for rubbing, saves on petrol, brake pads and discs.
Good luck.
Dave. 1998 Arctic Silver Z3 M44 1.9 Automatic
Yea it's a strange one really driving me nuts!DC wrote:Sounds like it's time to take it in, a good garage should diagnose it easily.
First though, as it only happens when the car is moving slowly it's worth checking the brake / handbrake pads are not sticking and rubbing slightly, you often only hear them squeal at very low speed.
Try jacking up each wheel in turn and spinning, it's worth doing this occasionally to check for rubbing, saves on petrol, brake pads and discs.
Good luck.
Not sure it's the pads/braking etc as rolling etc it's perfect it's only when the car is pulling drive-wise.
