Exhaust modification
Exhaust modification
How easy is it to change an exhaust on a Z3 2.8 single rear pipe to a double Z3M type. Including the bodywork.
Re: Exhaust modification
Not hard but you will loose the spare wheel in the processstek01 wrote:How easy is it to change an exhaust on a Z3 2.8 single rear pipe to a double Z3M type. Including the bodywork.
1999 2.8 Arctic Silver Z3
1987 Black Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
2007 325d Msport - remapped
1987 Black Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
2007 325d Msport - remapped
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: Exhaust modification
1. Remove the spare wheel and all the spare wheel housing bits.
2. Have the boot floor cut in the center and a battery box made and welded in to the center position.(with a drain hole in the bottom and a battery restraining clamp to hold the battery secure)
3. Relocate the battery to the center and extend the postive power lead to the terminal. Extending the cable is a better alternative to replacing it all the way from the boot to the engine bay, but you will need to find a good connector to join the extension. I used a brass connector commonly used by arc welders for joining heavy arc welding cables.). Move the negative lead and attach securely to the body wall.
4. Cut out the OEM battery housing, and weld in a new section of floor into the boot.
5. Buy the necessary hanging brackets and rubber connectors for the new right hand side system.
6. Replace the front box to allow the split for left and right hand exhaust systems with larger diameter pipes.
7. Have a new RH and LH system built from the front box back, and fit complete with new back boxes with the 2 pipes out the back. The OEM system has 2 pipes from the front box to the back box. You will need 2 single larger diameter pipes to feed from the front box - one for each side, and 2 new back boxes with single in and dual out configuration.
8. Make a template of the LH cut-out of the bumper, and reverse the image for a RH cut-out in the bumper.
9. Prime and paint everything metal in the boot as well as under the car
10.Sit back and enjoy the purr - if you've managed to get all the parts to sing in harmony...
2. Have the boot floor cut in the center and a battery box made and welded in to the center position.(with a drain hole in the bottom and a battery restraining clamp to hold the battery secure)
3. Relocate the battery to the center and extend the postive power lead to the terminal. Extending the cable is a better alternative to replacing it all the way from the boot to the engine bay, but you will need to find a good connector to join the extension. I used a brass connector commonly used by arc welders for joining heavy arc welding cables.). Move the negative lead and attach securely to the body wall.
4. Cut out the OEM battery housing, and weld in a new section of floor into the boot.
5. Buy the necessary hanging brackets and rubber connectors for the new right hand side system.
6. Replace the front box to allow the split for left and right hand exhaust systems with larger diameter pipes.
7. Have a new RH and LH system built from the front box back, and fit complete with new back boxes with the 2 pipes out the back. The OEM system has 2 pipes from the front box to the back box. You will need 2 single larger diameter pipes to feed from the front box - one for each side, and 2 new back boxes with single in and dual out configuration.
8. Make a template of the LH cut-out of the bumper, and reverse the image for a RH cut-out in the bumper.
9. Prime and paint everything metal in the boot as well as under the car
10.Sit back and enjoy the purr - if you've managed to get all the parts to sing in harmony...
Re: Exhaust modification
or get a custom made stainless system like i did ....... i lost the spare
Re: Exhaust modification
Do you know what they did with exhaust vacuum valve from the OEM exhaust? And how they bypassed it?
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: Exhaust modification
PCSAM may best answer that...I did the conversion on a 2.8...
Re: Exhaust modification
I considered the conversation then settled for the Eisennman fantastic sound
http://youtu.be/7TzQPyzdhss
http://youtu.be/MhrRLNmILM0
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
http://youtu.be/7TzQPyzdhss
http://youtu.be/MhrRLNmILM0
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Re: Exhaust modification
I went the other way, and replaced the full twin stainless system that was on my 2.8 when I bought it for a standard system.
Had to for the Spanish ITV (MOT) as it must be standard! I was gutted, as it looked and sounded fantastic.
Cost me approx €700 for the front pipe and back box and only recouped £220 including delivery to England on E-bay for the full stainless system despite advertising on the stock exchange here. The buyer is absolutely delighted with it, ah well my loss his gain! The standard system went straight on, so as has already been said here, to fit a system with twin back boxes and quad pipes the only modifications are losing the spare wheel and another cutout on the bumper for the extra silencer (which I am now left with!).
Had to for the Spanish ITV (MOT) as it must be standard! I was gutted, as it looked and sounded fantastic.
Cost me approx €700 for the front pipe and back box and only recouped £220 including delivery to England on E-bay for the full stainless system despite advertising on the stock exchange here. The buyer is absolutely delighted with it, ah well my loss his gain! The standard system went straight on, so as has already been said here, to fit a system with twin back boxes and quad pipes the only modifications are losing the spare wheel and another cutout on the bumper for the extra silencer (which I am now left with!).
-
- Joined: Fri 19 Jun, 2009 10:27
- Posts: 2093
- Location: Daglan, France
Re: Exhaust modification
The vacuum-operated valve on the OEM rear silencer is simply disconnected and its vacuum pipe plugged with a suitable small bolt.
What it does is to close the shorter 'noisey' silencer passage until labout 3000 rpm, so in the quest for a more 'powerful' noise it is not required.
What it does is to close the shorter 'noisey' silencer passage until labout 3000 rpm, so in the quest for a more 'powerful' noise it is not required.
A Z3 is not just for Christmas - it's for life!