Rust Treatment products ?

[Brian H]

I am having a bit of paintwork refreshed on my car, I have the lower cills off and the usual spots of rust are lurking behind the panels.

Do you guys have any recommendations regarding rust treatment products to use or even not to use?

Thanks

Brian

[mnbrennan]

I think POR-15 has been mentioned before

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[Fender2004]

I used rust.co.uk after a three year programme so you could see the results before you buy.

[Southernboy]

Depending on the extent of the rust, and if you want to prevent all future possibility of rust, it would be best to have the part completely stripped of paint... ie. bare metal, then have it zinc coated. The removal of all the paint will be the biggest job... plating is a relatively inexpensive process, but then you will need to have the part re-painted thereafter. So quite a long procedure, but one which will pretty much permanently avoid this happening again.
If it's a minor / small area, preparation is more important than any chemical treatment thereafter... the affected area plus some needs to be completely stripped and cleaned to bright metal. any pitting etc in the sheet metal should be filled in either with lead or brass and the sheet re-surfaced. Bodyfiller is OK, but isn't 100% waterproof, and if any damp soaks into it, you will have compunded the problem vs resolving it permanently. There are paint / spray on zinc compounds available, which are fairly effective, and certainly won't do any harm applying before undercoating, painting and clearcoat finishing.
Perhaps consider having the affected area and surrounds bead blasted (vs sand blasting which is very corrosive). Bead blasting is done with glass or plastic beads, and although is extremely effective in removing loose material such as rust, has very little penetrative effect on good metal. So you will get a very well cleaned area without compromising the gauge of the good metal in the sheet.
The odd thing about rust is the fact that it is a lot like cancer... if you don't get it all out, it will recur in short time. The bottom line is that the more intense preventative treatment you can apply once you have removed the current rust, the better.

[sirius-c]

I'm sorry if this appears like a thread hijack but it is rust related

I replaced my sill a couple of days ago and took the opportunity to spray your everyday black waxoyl underneath the car and in the chassis sills? (The part of the car with the circles in it that the bolt on sills bolt to).....

what i noticed is that on the bolts that screw in on the underside of the bolt on sills was some form of coating that i had to pull off with a knife.....
does anyone know what this stuff is? im assuming its some form of wax coating that dries hard and flexible unlike waxoyl,.
id like to cover the bolts again with something similar if someone can point me in the right direction

[beerbelly]

its a pro anti stonechip product cant remember the name now but when I worked in a ford dealerships bodyshop many years ago I had to fit a new chassis leg and inner wing to a vw polo and I had to coat a seam of this stuff over the panel joins it was applied with a air powerd mastic gun and came outa bit like a like a spray gun but it was like spinning cobwebs weird stuff don't think you will find it in aerosols tho

[lightning]

Waxoyl mixed with about 10% engine oil makes a good rust proofer, and it never goes hard, or flakes off. Plus it does not wash off the underside of the car in rain.
You can use the black or clear waxoyl, and heavy grade gear oil is best.

[Gazza]

Another option is a product called Stoneguard which is available in an aerosol.