http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/110762444230?cm ... C&gxo=true
Any one tried anything like the above, seems like it could be a pretty cool thing to add to my '97 without remote central locking
After market remote central locking
Re: After market remote central locking
Fitted a cl system from fleabay to the better halfs popemobile (yaris verso), worked perfectly for about a year then gradually, door by door ceased to function. You get what you pays for, bla bla!
Re: After market remote central locking
Where do you fit it? in the drivers door or under the bonnet and feed the wires through?Rafolian wrote:Fitted a cl system from fleabay to the better halfs popemobile (yaris verso), worked perfectly for about a year then gradually, door by door ceased to function. You get what you pays for, bla bla!
Re: After market remote central locking
The control unit fits under the dash, with wiring running to a solenoid actuator in each door.
Bit fiddly on the 4 door Yaris (took me half a day) but should be much easier on a Z3!
Bit fiddly on the 4 door Yaris (took me half a day) but should be much easier on a Z3!
Re: After market remote central locking
Well I have bought one and am immediately out of my depth 
All the information I could gather from various sources seems to imply that you just need 4 wires (open, close, earth and power) but the kit comes with a load of wires, now this kit can also do the windows and indicators but I only want to get the doors to open and close for now at least.
Looking at the information that I have I have come up with this diagram as to how my wiring should look with this kit, if anyone with any electrical skills could overlook it and tell me if this seems about right I would be really happy as I can see me melting something otherwise!
So I THINK this is how I need to wire it:
Based on the manual:
And a picture of the unit if it helps:
I have also been watching this to try to understand it all! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIPvZLRLXOE
If anyone can shed anymore light and confirm if I am at least barking up the right tree it would be great! Top marks if anyone knows which wires to splice into in the door as we all know that will be the next question
Help me zroadster.net you're my only hope
All the information I could gather from various sources seems to imply that you just need 4 wires (open, close, earth and power) but the kit comes with a load of wires, now this kit can also do the windows and indicators but I only want to get the doors to open and close for now at least.
Looking at the information that I have I have come up with this diagram as to how my wiring should look with this kit, if anyone with any electrical skills could overlook it and tell me if this seems about right I would be really happy as I can see me melting something otherwise!
So I THINK this is how I need to wire it:
Based on the manual:
And a picture of the unit if it helps:
I have also been watching this to try to understand it all! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIPvZLRLXOE
If anyone can shed anymore light and confirm if I am at least barking up the right tree it would be great! Top marks if anyone knows which wires to splice into in the door as we all know that will be the next question
Help me zroadster.net you're my only hope
Re: After market remote central locking
You can connect this in if you are comfortable with cutting some wires in your wiring loom.
Also there is no need to get into the door panels, as all of the wiring can be done underneath the glovebox.
I can explain exactly which wire needs to go where if you want to continue....
The connection diagram is the positive trigger, and you cannot do what you have drawn as this will blow fuses.
(Hope I am not too late)
The door locks operate from outputs from the ZKE module (under the glove box )which has a number of relays built in.
Each lock motor has both terminals connected to earth in the rest position, hence applying 12v will blow a fuse or kill your unit.
What the ZKE module does is when you lock, for instance, it automatically disconnects the earth from one side of the motor and applies 12v instead, leaving the path to earth still connected on the other wire to the motor.
When you unlock, it replaces the earth on the other side with the 12v keeping the earth on the opposite wire.
This is also the reason you would need to cut cables from the ZKE and re-route them trough you central locking unit relays.
If you wish to proceed, I can tell you which colour wires to cut and which colours they need to re-connect to..
Let me know as its quite involved to write up, but not to actually carry out.
Also there is no need to get into the door panels, as all of the wiring can be done underneath the glovebox.
I can explain exactly which wire needs to go where if you want to continue....
The connection diagram is the positive trigger, and you cannot do what you have drawn as this will blow fuses.
(Hope I am not too late)
The door locks operate from outputs from the ZKE module (under the glove box )which has a number of relays built in.
Each lock motor has both terminals connected to earth in the rest position, hence applying 12v will blow a fuse or kill your unit.
What the ZKE module does is when you lock, for instance, it automatically disconnects the earth from one side of the motor and applies 12v instead, leaving the path to earth still connected on the other wire to the motor.
When you unlock, it replaces the earth on the other side with the 12v keeping the earth on the opposite wire.
This is also the reason you would need to cut cables from the ZKE and re-route them trough you central locking unit relays.
If you wish to proceed, I can tell you which colour wires to cut and which colours they need to re-connect to..
Let me know as its quite involved to write up, but not to actually carry out.
Last edited by gookah on Fri 30 Jan, 2015 00:25, edited 1 time in total.
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: After market remote central locking
gookah wrote:You can connect this in if you are comfortable with cutting some wires in your wiring loom.
Also there is no need to get into the door panels, as all of the wiring can be done underneath the glovebox.
I can explain exactly which wire needs to go where if you want to continue....
The connection diagram is the positive/negative trigger and you cannot do what you have drawn as this will blow fuses.
(Hope I am not too late)
The door locks operate from outputs from the ZKE module (under the glove box )which has a number of relays built in.
Each lock motor has both terminals connected to earth in the rest position, hence applying 12v will blow a fuse or kill your unit.
What the ZKE module does is when you lock, for instance, it automatically disconnects the earth from one side of the motor and applies 12v instead, leaving the path to earth still connected on the other wire to the motor.
When you unlock, it replaces the earth on the other side with the 12v keeping the earth on the opposite wire.
This is also the reason you would need to cut cables from the ZKE and re-route them trough you central locking unit relays.
If you wish to proceed, I can tell you which colour wires to cut and which colours they need to re-connect to..
Let me know as its quite involved to write up, but not to actually carry out.
I haven't started yet and don't intend to without being at least 80% sure of what I am doing so thanks I'm all ears!!! (or should that be eyes?
) thanks gookah!!Also I don't mind splicing into the car loom as have fitted digital radio and rear parking sensor without too much difficulty once I'd bored everyone on here with my questions
Re: After market remote central locking
OK, will try and get something together for you in the next couple of days...
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: After market remote central locking
That would be AMAZINGgookah wrote:OK, will try and get something together for you in the next couple of days...
I am off of work from Friday so it would be great as I would have time to study what you say and do the job in the light of day, a rare occurrence for me
Re: After market remote central locking
Right here goes.
You will need to remove the glovebox
Behind the glove box is the ZKE (A104) unit. it is the wide module on the second shelf down
Outputs: (for info)
The ZKE supplies outputs on pins 1, 2 and 9 from the L/H connector (X13252 the black plug)
Blue/Grey wire (pin-2) goes to the unlock terminal on the door motors.
White wire (pin-9) and Black wire (pin-1) go to the lock terminal on the door motors.
These are all normally –ve, and can change to +12v depending on lock or unlock command from factory remote.
Pressing factory key unlock will keep -ve on 1&9 and will output +12v to 2, to unlock the doors.
Pressing factory key lock will keep -ve on 2, and output +12v to 1&9 to lock the doors.
Now this is where it gets serious.
Cut those 3 wires from ZKE outputs about 100mm from unit, Thats the Black wire, the Blue/Grey wire and the White wire respectively, (from the L/H connector - black plug)
Cut and mask the end of White wire that comes from pin 9 on the ZKE unit. It won’t be used afterwards.
Now, you must join the Black and the White "lock" wire ends that go towards the drivers door, together, and connect your new White wire from your central locking unit to both these wires.
Your new White/Black wire from your central locking unit (‘unlock’ wire) must be connected to the Blue/Grey unlock wire end that goes towards the door.
The short length of Blue/Grey wire from ZKE unit, must be connected to your new Orange/Black wire
The short length of Black wire from ZKE unit must be connected to your new Orange wire.
Your new Yellow ,and Yellow /Black wires must be connected to a 12volt +ve supply along with your red wire for the unit.
Your new Black wire must be connected to earth.
Only one relay at a time is switched. When a button is pressed, the relevant relay changes to +12v, whilst the other is unswitched and remains -ve.
PS this is exactly as mine and my sons' cars are and your wiring diagram seems to be identical for this unit.
I hold no responsibility for this, as I am only trying to help. Please ensure you follow to the letter and don't try it until all the wires are cut and re-connected and checked again and again. all should be fine.
Happy wiring....
I would advise an inline fuse in your White/Black wire of 10amp to match the one in the white wire. Why they want to protect the lock and not the unlock wire is puzzling.
You will need to remove the glovebox
Behind the glove box is the ZKE (A104) unit. it is the wide module on the second shelf down
Outputs: (for info)
The ZKE supplies outputs on pins 1, 2 and 9 from the L/H connector (X13252 the black plug)
Blue/Grey wire (pin-2) goes to the unlock terminal on the door motors.
White wire (pin-9) and Black wire (pin-1) go to the lock terminal on the door motors.
These are all normally –ve, and can change to +12v depending on lock or unlock command from factory remote.
Pressing factory key unlock will keep -ve on 1&9 and will output +12v to 2, to unlock the doors.
Pressing factory key lock will keep -ve on 2, and output +12v to 1&9 to lock the doors.
Now this is where it gets serious.
Cut those 3 wires from ZKE outputs about 100mm from unit, Thats the Black wire, the Blue/Grey wire and the White wire respectively, (from the L/H connector - black plug)
Cut and mask the end of White wire that comes from pin 9 on the ZKE unit. It won’t be used afterwards.
Now, you must join the Black and the White "lock" wire ends that go towards the drivers door, together, and connect your new White wire from your central locking unit to both these wires.
Your new White/Black wire from your central locking unit (‘unlock’ wire) must be connected to the Blue/Grey unlock wire end that goes towards the door.
The short length of Blue/Grey wire from ZKE unit, must be connected to your new Orange/Black wire
The short length of Black wire from ZKE unit must be connected to your new Orange wire.
Your new Yellow ,and Yellow /Black wires must be connected to a 12volt +ve supply along with your red wire for the unit.
Your new Black wire must be connected to earth.
Only one relay at a time is switched. When a button is pressed, the relevant relay changes to +12v, whilst the other is unswitched and remains -ve.
PS this is exactly as mine and my sons' cars are and your wiring diagram seems to be identical for this unit.
I hold no responsibility for this, as I am only trying to help. Please ensure you follow to the letter and don't try it until all the wires are cut and re-connected and checked again and again. all should be fine.
Happy wiring....
I would advise an inline fuse in your White/Black wire of 10amp to match the one in the white wire. Why they want to protect the lock and not the unlock wire is puzzling.
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: After market remote central locking
Bloody hell you're good, I wish you could just do it for me! (well you sort of are really )
So before I start cutting and hoping to the z3 gods lets see if I have this straight...
I THINK I understand all that, but will sleep on it and try tomorrow I think rather than rush into anything today, the last question really is where is the 12volt +ve and earth? (which colour wires?) as I would need to make sure that it's a constant live I would imagine so that the receiver is powered when the car is locked.
I've pulled some of the wires out and can see a white, black and blue grey wire... so far so good... but which is the 12volt +ve and earth?
(well you sort of are really )So before I start cutting and hoping to the z3 gods lets see if I have this straight...
I THINK I understand all that, but will sleep on it and try tomorrow I think rather than rush into anything today, the last question really is where is the 12volt +ve and earth? (which colour wires?) as I would need to make sure that it's a constant live I would imagine so that the receiver is powered when the car is locked.
I've pulled some of the wires out and can see a white, black and blue grey wire... so far so good... but which is the 12volt +ve and earth?
Re: After market remote central locking
Hi Mark
The +12v supplies to the ZKE are not colour coded on the wiring diagram, however the red wires to the left of the white wire from the ZKE are both +12v all the time.
I suggest you use a meter to check this, and then just splice your red wire into one of them.
The earth wire from your unit can be connected to a bolt on the dashboard/bodywork.
The +12v supplies to the ZKE are not colour coded on the wiring diagram, however the red wires to the left of the white wire from the ZKE are both +12v all the time.
I suggest you use a meter to check this, and then just splice your red wire into one of them.
The earth wire from your unit can be connected to a bolt on the dashboard/bodywork.
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: After market remote central locking
Thanks gookah, I cannot tell you how much of a help you have been, I'll give it a go tomorrow.........fingers crossed!
Re: After market remote central locking
Right, so I followed your excellent guide line to the letter, connected the battery, hit the button and... nowt 
Got the multimeter out and I think I have killed the wire I was getting the power from (the red and blue wire pictured)
So this is where I stand currently... Hit the button and nothing, but the central locking works as usual as does all of the car systems (as far as I can tell) I still have lights, interior lights, stereo, central locking, cigarette lighter and the car starts...
So my current theory is that I have blown the fuse connected to the blue and red lead but that was powering something that I don't have...cruise control or the like.
I have looked at the fuse box and cannot see anything amiss however
As the locking still works I feel that we must be on the right track but don't know what my next steps are, perhaps more to the point I'm freezing cold now, it's tipping with rain and my fingers are giving up on me
The red and blue wire was the only one that I found early that was live so assumed this would be ok... the red ones didn't seem to be live with the ignition off.
I'm stumped now (>.<) I'm calling it quits for this evening but if anyone has any tips pointers or suggestions I'd be grateful
Got the multimeter out and I think I have killed the wire I was getting the power from (the red and blue wire pictured)
So this is where I stand currently... Hit the button and nothing, but the central locking works as usual as does all of the car systems (as far as I can tell) I still have lights, interior lights, stereo, central locking, cigarette lighter and the car starts...
So my current theory is that I have blown the fuse connected to the blue and red lead but that was powering something that I don't have...cruise control or the like.
I have looked at the fuse box and cannot see anything amiss however
As the locking still works I feel that we must be on the right track but don't know what my next steps are, perhaps more to the point I'm freezing cold now, it's tipping with rain and my fingers are giving up on me
The red and blue wire was the only one that I found early that was live so assumed this would be ok... the red ones didn't seem to be live with the ignition off.
I'm stumped now (>.<) I'm calling it quits for this evening but if anyone has any tips pointers or suggestions I'd be grateful
Re: After market remote central locking
is that red and blue wire still live?
Which plug is it on and where on the plug does it fit?
EG bottom row, top row, how many pins from the left?
do you have power to your new central locking unit?
can you disconnect the wires all the wires from your new unit except live and earth and the measure what happens..
Wish I was nearer..
can you take a photo of the black plug for me, more to the left so I can see the wiring?
Which plug is it on and where on the plug does it fit?
EG bottom row, top row, how many pins from the left?
do you have power to your new central locking unit?
can you disconnect the wires all the wires from your new unit except live and earth and the measure what happens..
Wish I was nearer..
can you take a photo of the black plug for me, more to the left so I can see the wiring?
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: After market remote central locking
The wire goes into the bottom left of the black plug in the ZKE
I am currently in the process of removing the centre console (as i had a few tasks to do with it anyway) to hopefully give me better access to the wires anyway.
I was wondering about splicing into the cigarette lighter afaik that's a constant live.
My current working theory is that the unit just isn't getting any power... I can't seem to locate a live wire that goes into the ZKE ... so that's probably my poor multimeter skills... still think that perhaps I blew the red and blue wire but if I hook it to the cigarette lighter at least I can tell for sure... that's the idea anyway
Re: After market remote central locking
that red/blue wire is from fuse 14, which is 30A for the power windows, do they still work? is that fuse blown?
are you sure of the other connections.
I have double checked my instructions again and cannot find anything untoward unless your new unit is dodgy?
are you sure of the other connections.
I have double checked my instructions again and cannot find anything untoward unless your new unit is dodgy?
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: After market remote central locking
I plan to have another look in the morning, I'm still frozen after yesterday so have had the centre console apart to do the little cosmetic jobs on it that I wanted too.gookah wrote:that red/blue wire is from fuse 14, which is 30A for the power windows, do they still work? is that fuse blown?
are you sure of the other connections.
I have double checked my instructions again and cannot find anything untoward unless your new unit is dodgy?
I didn't check the windows yesterday so that's a place to start...sounds logical and also not THAT scary as I can live without the windows for a bit, currently the car is in a state with wires everywhere, so the console will go back in tomorrow, I'll regather my thoughts and TRY to find a live wire... which is still beating me at this stage, I just can not seem to find one, each time I put the multimeter onto the connectors I get nothing, it's so frustrating. Think tomorrow will be D-Day, If I don't get it working I'll probably cut my losses and give up.
I have no idea if the box works as theres no lights or anything... so it's possible that It's never actually had any power getting to it....hmmmm
Re: After market remote central locking
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilKX0e0 ... e=youtu.be
TOP MAN
Once I had fully dried out after being soaked through on Saturday and nursing a hangover Sunday, I had a decent sleep and tackled the job today, after testing everything I tried the cigarette lighter knowing that should always be live and got nothing... So made a stronger connection with my grounding wire and bingo the multimeter lit up.
I then retraced my steps and connected up to the red wires that you suggested, checked all my wires again for a final kill or cure time and... the car locked
So happy I cannot stress how grateful I am of all your help Gookah!!!
TOP MAN
Once I had fully dried out after being soaked through on Saturday and nursing a hangover Sunday, I had a decent sleep and tackled the job today, after testing everything I tried the cigarette lighter knowing that should always be live and got nothing... So made a stronger connection with my grounding wire and bingo the multimeter lit up.
I then retraced my steps and connected up to the red wires that you suggested, checked all my wires again for a final kill or cure time and... the car locked
So happy I cannot stress how grateful I am of all your help Gookah!!!
Re: After market remote central locking
No problem Mark, now do you want to know how to get the windows to roll up, and also how to get your side lights to flash...Z3 Mark wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilKX0e0 ... e=youtu.be
TOP MAN
Once I had fully dried out after being soaked through on Saturday and nursing a hangover Sunday, I had a decent sleep and tackled the job today, after testing everything I tried the cigarette lighter knowing that should always be live and got nothing... So made a stronger connection with my grounding wire and bingo the multimeter lit up.
I then retraced my steps and connected up to the red wires that you suggested, checked all my wires again for a final kill or cure time and... the car locked
So happy I cannot stress how grateful I am of all your help Gookah!!!
I should also be able to have a lucky guess at that wiring too....
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: After market remote central locking
No body likes a show off...gookah wrote:
No problem Mark, now do you want to know how to get the windows to roll up, and also how to get your side lights to flash...
I should also be able to have a lucky guess at that wiring too....
It's all back in one piece now, I think I'll quit whilst I'm ahead
Re: After market remote central locking
What about the remote roof closure as well?gookah wrote:No problem Mark, now do you want to know how to get the windows to roll up, and also how to get your side lights to flash...
I should also be able to have a lucky guess at that wiring too....
2000 BMW Z3 2.8 Titanium Silver Roadster with too many mods to list 
Click For 2.0 Progress Journal
Click For 2.8 Progress Journal
Click For 2.0 Progress Journal
Click For 2.8 Progress Journal
Re: After market remote central locking
and the remote engine start, and drive-off locking, and ignition activated DRL angel eyes, oh and front and rear facing parking cameras.g8jka wrote:What about the remote roof closure as well?gookah wrote:No problem Mark, now do you want to know how to get the windows to roll up, and also how to get your side lights to flash...
I should also be able to have a lucky guess at that wiring too....
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: After market remote central locking
great stuff gookah...
factory remote on my 2.9 has been knacked since i bought so a 10 quid aftermarket kit from fleabay and Gookah's suberb instructions and jobs a good un!
for some reason on my kit the lock did an unlock and unlock locked but I just swaped around the orange to orange/black and white to white/black in instructions and was sorted.
anyone ever play with windows up and light flash? not sure i can be arsed but would be nice to know if its easy!
Thanks (especically Gookah)
Jez.
factory remote on my 2.9 has been knacked since i bought so a 10 quid aftermarket kit from fleabay and Gookah's suberb instructions and jobs a good un!
for some reason on my kit the lock did an unlock and unlock locked but I just swaped around the orange to orange/black and white to white/black in instructions and was sorted.
anyone ever play with windows up and light flash? not sure i can be arsed but would be nice to know if its easy!
Thanks (especically Gookah)
Jez.
Re: After market remote central locking
glad to see my instructions are still available, and they can help people with a problem....
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
-
bertiejaffa
- Joined: Fri 26 Jul, 2013 09:28
- Posts: 1733
- Location: Manchester
Re: After market remote central locking
To be fair Pete - you're pretty useful old chapgookah wrote:glad to see my instructions are still available, and they can help people with a problem....
