ASC ABS lights

Alan W · Post by **Alan W** » Sun 15 Feb, 2015 22:40

I have had both dash lights on constantly for months now and diagnostics show ASC pump fault. I have done a load of research which seems to lean towards broken/dry soldered joints in the module caused by the heat of the engine which as you know is really close to module and apparently that fault makes the module believe that the ASC pump is not working.

What I intend to do is remove the module and send it away to get it tested and if faulty then repaired. Can anyone tell me, are you able to remove just the module or does the whole lot have to come out and then you split them? And is it a difficult job or fairly straightforward?

Thanks in advance

Alan

Alan W · Post by **Alan W** » Wed 18 Feb, 2015 20:34

Bumpity bump...

spanwah · Post by **spanwah** » Wed 18 Feb, 2015 21:25

Alan W wrote:I have had both dash lights on constantly for months now and diagnostics show ASC pump fault. I have done a load of research which seems to lean towards broken/dry soldered joints in the module caused by the heat of the engine which as you know is really close to module and apparently that fault makes the module believe that the ASC pump is not working.

What I intend to do is remove the module and send it away to get it tested and if faulty then repaired. Can anyone tell me, are you able to remove just the module or does the whole lot have to come out and then you split them? And is it a difficult job or fairly straightforward?

Thanks in advance

Alan

put up a pic (to confirm in my mind we are on the same wavelength )and I can tell you what I did ! I had the same issue! both lights on (reading pump failure aswell) change the module(black box) which I bought second hand of ebay 28 squid(check the no.s on it) !! a couple of screws straight off straight on took about 5 mins never had any issues since! everything works well never had an issue since!

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Wed 18 Feb, 2015 21:41

My sons ABS/ASC unit was faulty (code 70 I think), and we just swapped everything out with a second hand one with exactly the same part numbers. We tried unplugging the old unit and plugging in the 'new' one before stripping anything off the car. The fault cleared straight away, so we went on to swap out the pump and module complete.
No coding needed, just brake bleeding.

There is a company on eBay that charges a non-refundable £60 or so for a test and repair ("if the fault is simple") I have never seen a comment from anyone that hasn't ended up with a £250 bill.....the fault never seems to be the simple one....
Make me suspicious that they take £60 without even testing it, if you have it sent back they are still quids in, or they end up getting your go ahead for an expensive fix as you have already forked out £60, even if it was just a dry joint

I would source a 2nd hand one with the same numbers, just try plugging it in to see if it is good or just send it back. Then investigate getting the old one fixed if you still want to, and sell on.

Don't forget these faults are an MOT fail now

spanwah · Post by **spanwah** » Wed 18 Feb, 2015 23:08

gookah wrote:My sons ABS/ASC unit was faulty (code 70 I think), and we just swapped everything out with a second hand one with exactly the same part numbers. We tried unplugging the old unit and plugging in the 'new' one before stripping anything off the car. The fault cleared straight away, so we went on to swap out the pump and module complete.
No coding needed, just brake bleeding.

There is a company on eBay that charges a non-refundable £60 or so for a test and repair ("if the fault is simple") I have never seen a comment from anyone that hasn't ended up with a £250 bill.....the fault never seems to be the simple one....
Make me suspicious that they take £60 without even testing it, if you have it sent back they are still quids in, or they end up getting your go ahead for an expensive fix as you have already forked out £60, even if it was just a dry joint

I would source a 2nd hand one with the same numbers, just try plugging it in to see if it is good or just send it back. Then investigate getting the old one fixed if you still want to, and sell on.

Don't forget these faults are an MOT fail now

a lot easier to swap module requires no bleeding whatsoever 10 min job a lot cheaper ! just get the no,s right on the module the pump side is mechanical not much chance of that going pete tong when you look at it when you've separated them both

g8jka · Post by **g8jka** » Thu 19 Feb, 2015 12:10

spanwah wrote:a lot easier to swap module requires no bleeding whatsoever 10 min job a lot cheaper ! just get the no,s right on the module the pump side is mechanical not much chance of that going pete tong when you look at it when you've separated them both

Wasn't as fast as 10 minutes to swap the whole module out but doing it that way meant we could bleed the whole system with new brake fluid, as it was due a change in the near future anyway and it gave us chance to put 2 new brake hoses upfront without bleeding the system twice.

spanwah · Post by **spanwah** » Thu 19 Feb, 2015 17:27

g8jka wrote:
spanwah wrote:a lot easier to swap module requires no bleeding whatsoever 10 min job a lot cheaper ! just get the no,s right on the module the pump side is mechanical not much chance of that going pete tong when you look at it when you've separated them both
Wasn't as fast as 10 minutes to swap the whole module out but doing it that way meant we could bleed the whole system with new brake fluid, as it was due a change in the near future anyway and it gave us chance to put 2 new brake hoses upfront without bleeding the system twice.

if you need to do other work then that's awesome saves a lot of hassle in the future!

Alan W · Post by **Alan W** » Sat 21 Feb, 2015 18:28

Spanwah / Gookah / g8jka

Many thanks for your help and input.. heres a couple of photos of the module and abs/asc unit in situ.. it looks like all I may have to do is to unplug the module and undo four screws, can you confirm? And if its that easy do I need to drain the brake fluid - I am worried that it might piss out everywhere when I remove the module?

The module part no is 34511164897 and I have found a couple on ebay in Germany, would that matter if it came from there?

And would it matter if it came off a 3 series as opposed to a Z3?

Brian4 · Post by **Brian4** » Sat 21 Feb, 2015 19:06

Hi Alan
I've never had it apart myself but here is a link to a replacement guide. It is for a 540 but the same principle applies.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt ... nt-(540it)

Zed Carer · Post by **Zed Carer** » Sun 22 Feb, 2015 12:32

The electrical control unit can just be disconnected and removed without any brake fluid being released. When I had to change mine on a 99 2.8 the replacement unit, with the correct part nos came from 2000 3 Series and had to be recoded full details here.

Alan W · Post by **Alan W** » Mon 23 Feb, 2015 20:19

Thanks guys for all your help, was driving the car last night and tried out a bit of heavy braking on a wet road and it looks like the ABS is definitely not working, front wheels just locked up and she slid. Whether or not this is down to the module or an indication that the pump is faulty I don't know but I'll try the former first

Post by **Robert T** » Mon 23 Feb, 2015 21:30

Were the lights on or off when you tested the car? If the ABS light is on, then the system is disabled, as a misfiring ABS has the potential to be much worse than no-ABS at all. Unlike the airbag, the ABS system does seem to try to reset itself, and with wheel sensor faults, the lights will often come back on the first time you apply the brakes. The pump/control board fault seems to be detected immediately, so the light stays on all the time.

Cheers R.

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ASC ABS lights

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