Recommissioning after 9 months garaged

[mrscalex]

Hi to all. I have 'adopted' my brother's 1999 Z3 1.9 which he has had from new but was taken off the road last summer when he replaced it as his daily driver with a 1 Series. It hasn't been started in 9 months and I want to try and get it fired up this weekend with a view to putting it back on the road over the summer.

I know the generic advice is something along the lines of 1) recharge battery 2) remove spark plugs 3) add a small amount of engine oil through the spark plug hole 4) leave over night 5) crank engine until oil pressure light goes out 6) replace spark plugs 7) fire up.

Is this sensible advice for a Z3?

Thanks.

[beerbelly]

just charge the battery and start it 9 months standing is nothing if it was 9 years then yes id change the oil and filters first

[Davejue1]

Agree with beerbelly. Bung the battery on and turn it over with as little throttle as possible. Allow the oil to circulate properly before revving. Has it been stored with the handbrake on? If it has you may find the rear calipers may need a tad of assistance.

[TitanTim]

Mines usually off the road for 6 months, just unhook the battery conditioner and drive off lol.

Tim.

[Zed Carer]

Mine has just spent 6 months off the road hooked up to a battery conditioner. I pulled the fuses to the fuel pump and turned it over with 3 or 4 bursts on the starter until the red oil pressure light had gone out, then replaced the fuses and started as normal. Why? Well the 6 pots have Vanos valve units that operate by oil pressure so starting without any oil pressure is not a good idea. The 1.9, as far as I am aware does not have a Vanos unit but it wouldn't do any harm to at least pull the fuel pump fuses first to get the oil circulated and up to pressure.

[mrscalex]

Thanks for your replies. I'm in for rolling up my sleeves and getting stuck in at some point - I did all sorts of work on Mk I and 2 Escorts back in the day but for now I'd just like to get it fired up.

It looks like I was a bit too cautious here. But I like the idea of removing the fuse to the fuel pump and building the oil pressure up, it would do no harm.

Any steers on finding the fuse bank and which one that is?

I'll get myself a Haynes manual so I don't need to keep asking soft questions. I just had a rush of blood to the head to get it started this weekend with a view of taxing from 1 Apr for 6 months.

[Zed Carer]

Looking from the front on mine the fuse box is back right of the engine bay not sure where it is on a 1.9 but it shouldn't be difficult to spot. The list and location of the fuses should be on a label on the inside of the cover to the fuse box along with spare fuses, etc.

[mrscalex]

Grand thanks. The car isn't stored at my house so I just wanted to make sure I was equipped properly before travelling. I thought it might be more hidden than that and didn't know if the fuses were labelled.

[Rory4711]

Afternoon all. Can someone tell me where the fuel pump fuse is and how I can identify it ?
many thanks

[Robert T]

The layout of the fuses is shown on a sticker on the inside of the fuse box lid, along with a chart saying what the fuses do.

Cheers R.

[pingu]

Thanks for your replies. I'm in for rolling up my sleeves and getting stuck in at some point - I did all sorts of work on Mk I and 2 Escorts back in the day but for now I'd just like to get it fired up.

If the car's looked after, there is nothing to do on these cars unless you want to.

Once you become a regular, you will see that most of the spanner time is modification and very little is sorting out problems. They haven't even started to rust yet. After 15 years a Mk 1 Escort would be on it's third wing as the first two would have rotted away .

After Escorts, you'll have to get used to letting the diagnostics software guide you to the fault rather than using educated guesses.

Until you have a problem there is no need to spend any money on publications or code reading software. The service light can be reset with a paper clip.

The best software to get hold of is INPA. It is bespoke and generic code readers are next to useless on BMWs.

The airbag light can be reset using a B800 reset tool.

The best book that I have found is the Chilton manual (available from the States). There is no UK Haynes, but the US E30 3-series Haynes book does cover the Z3. Others will try to convince you to spend mega-bucks on a Bentley book, but unless you are buying it to build a complete set of documentation I wouldn't bother.

The best "publication" is the BMW TIS. Google it to find out more about it. The TIS is where I go to when I want to know how to do something or to get a torque figure. The only problem with it is that it is a BMW tool and won't show you how to repair something that a BMW dealer would replace.


Best of all. If you have any problems, just post it on here and someone will help you.

[mrscalex]

Thanks Pingu.

The Escorts were 25+ years ago and I couldn't go through all that again I used to spend the weekend fixing them just to make it through the next week.

I see the value of the software. I'll certainly make that investment as and when required.

Right now I just need to get it started (very dead battery and stuck bonnet release when I tried yesterday). And then through the MOT.

It needs the bonnet, boot lid and rear bumper resprayed as the lacqueer has peeled off. And the rear window replaced. It looks awful. I don't see the point of driving it looking like that as it would take the pleasure out of it. But at a guesstimate of around £1200 and let's be prudent and say £300 to get it through the MOT I'm going to have to be certain of the investment. It's a very solid and otherwise clean and tidy, relatively low miler (80k) so is a good candidate. In fairness the £1500 would probably lift the value from £500 to £1500+. I know that would buy a car ready to go that's not the point is it?

As my brother's owned it from new and come this far he's sworn never to sell it but I don't see the point of doing that and just leaving it in the garage. As I drive an Alhambra normally it will make an interesting change

[Jonttt]

Mine has just spent 6 months off the road hooked up to a battery conditioner. I pulled the fuses to the fuel pump and turned it over with 3 or 4 bursts on the starter until the red oil pressure light had gone out, then replaced the fuses and started as normal. Why? Well the 6 pots have Vanos valve units that operate by oil pressure so starting without any oil pressure is not a good idea. The 1.9, as far as I am aware does not have a Vanos unit but it wouldn't do any harm to at least pull the fuel pump fuses first to get the oil circulated and up to pressure.

^^^^ This.

Check tyres pressures first so you can take it for a good 30 min run straight away to burn out any moisture build up, let engine oil get up to temp (c15 min) and then open it up. Your brakes may be a little rough at first but the pads will soon shift the corrosion on the discs, just make sure they are not sticking.

9 months is nothing, mines not moved for 18

[Zed Carer]

Right now I just need to get it started (very dead battery and stuck bonnet release when I tried yesterday). And then through the MOT.

The usual first advice for stuck bonnet catches is to have someone pressing down on the front of the bonnet whilst trying the release lever.

Mine wasn't Escorts but I had a succession of Citroen GSs that were quite often in pieces over the weekend, put back together on Sunday so I could get to work on Monday.

[Sailorbaz]

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your new acquisition.

Mine sat for 14 without any power at all, after fitting a new loom, draining the fuel and replacing all filters and oil, mine started up after some getting with the immobiliser.

In your case, everything said above and it should run without any problems. Please do let us know how you get on and share your experiences, good and (if any) bad.

[mrscalex]

Thanks for the support. Much appreciated.

[Rory4711]

The layout of the fuses is shown on a sticker on the inside of the fuse box lid, along with a chart saying what the fuses do.

Cheers R.

Got it ! Many thanks. Incidentally it identifies 2 on the M, nos 13 & 18
Rgds

[Zed Carer]

Incidentally it identifies 2 on the M, nos 13 & 18
Rgds

I suspect that it will be the same on all models as it was fuses 13 & 18 on my 2.8.

[Robert T]

I suspect that it will be the same on all models as it was fuses 13 & 18 on my 2.8.

I was looking at the wiring diagrams, and one said 13 and 18, but an earlier one didn't even show it!

On the one that showed it, it actually said "fuel pump relay" and the relay itself appears to be located either under the dash or in the e-box (not in the fuse box).

IIRC it also said brake lights on one of the same fuses. As it wasn't clear I gave the advice to check the lid of the fusebox, as that should be right for the model.

Cheers R.

[Sailorbaz]

The relay for the fuel pump is one of the 3 relays under the dash on the drivers side, you might have to remove the piece of trim in front of the speaker to get to them. But I'm nearly sure theres another fuse in the fuse box, although I could be wrong.

[Robert T]

According to the wiring diagrams BOTH locations are possible. Not just me being vague.

Cheers R.

[mrscalex]

I'm not finding a lot of time to get the car back on the road but I am a little further advanced.

The Z3 (1998/M44) was successfully started. I removed fuel pump fuses 13 and 18 to turn the engine over to move the oil around.

I have INPA now which confirmed an error 113/H71 with the ABS pump. I have a 2nd-hand unit with the same part number from a 3 Series to fit. I will just be swapping the control unit as it seems like that's all the problem is most of the time (ie not the pump itself). Then I'll have a go at re-coding it.

I also found a code 175 DISA and 167 CAM sensor. I've read up on the DISA and will have a go at that at some stage as it's a simple enough looking replacement. The concern there appears to be the possibility of it dis-integrating into the engine. Not read up on the CAM sensor yet but fingers crossed that's an easy one too.

The engine is idling around 1400 which doesn't seem right at all. I'm hoping it's just the throttle cable as that was stuck solid when I first blipped the pedal. Hopefully a good blast on the way to the MOT will cure it.

I also noticed the clutch was taking up very high. I hate clutches like that. On my daily driver which is an Alhambra (actually on 3rd one and the older ones were the same) the clutch starts biting nice and low and eases in gradually. On this car it feels like my other half's C2 which doesn't bite until the clutch pedal is nearly up. Is that normal on a Z3 and/or is the high idle affecting this?

INPA also put some exclamation marks next to a number of engine readings (eg total air consumption HLM) but if they are still there after running the car hopefully a kind forum member may be able to advise

Also on the to do list will be 2 stuck electric windows, an internal door pull handle and a new rear screen. I see lots of info on the forum on the first 2 but the 3rd I think I'll leave to an expert.

There's also a leak through the boot lid to sort out. Presumably the brake light or aerial gasket?

Thanks for all the help so far!

PS Also quite impressed with insurance quote. £137 for myself and my brother for 2000 miles (that's all we'll do). I just need to find my notes as to who it was with, Footman James I think...

[Del]

Looking at codes for the M44 engine ECU (DME M5.2 and M5.21)
code 167 = Fuel pump relay
code 113 = Camshaft Position sensor signal (the M44 only has one)
code 175 = DISA (control circuit electrical)

The DISA is very easy to change on the M44 engine - unusual for an electrical problem, the problem is often mechanical in that they get noisy with age and make a loud buzzing noise. I've replaced mine, fairly pricey BMW part at around £150.

The camshaft position sensor requires the top of the inlet manifold to be removed to feed the wire to the ECU socket. They are a fairly common failure on what is now becoming an older engine. I've replaced mine, BMW OE price was around £95 - cheap aftermarket sensors of this type can be problematic. Have a good inspection of the little "tree" of vacuum pipes feeding the 4 injectors on this engine, when you have the manifold top off - they typically perish with age. A faulty cam sensor could send the idle haywire. A vacuum leak will also raise the idle.

Was the 167 triggered by you temporarily disabling the fuel supply to turn the engine over?

As you say, the odds are that the boot leak is either the aerial grommet and/or third brake light seal.

Good luck

[mrscalex]

Noted the codes slightly wrong in the post.

The 167 was the fuel pump relay caused by me pulling the relay. It cleared fine along with a battery code.

The cam sensor was 112. Which also cleared with the first 2 codes in fairness.

The 175 DISA did not clear.

The ABS pump was 113 and seems to come from a different bank of codes to the engine ones. I've also got a hand-held scanner which reported the same error as 71. Took me a minute to click but realised the hand-held scanner reported in hex and INPA in decimal. 71 in hex (I used short-hand H71) is the same as decimal 113.

No noises from the DISA. But will look at changing it anyway due to disintegration concerns.

Interesting thoughts on CAM sensor/vacuum leak possibly causing idle problem - thanks. Will investigate further if it doesn't clear after giving it a blast.

[mrscalex]

ABS control module replaced today. 10 minute job and the 113 code cleared by itself along with the dash lights.

There were a couple of wheel sensor codes came up but I'm guessing they were hangovers from when the control module was in the original car (second-hand unit off Ebay). They cleared down anyway.

I do need to re-code the unit, I have a how-to but I didn't fancy trying that today.

Now I can get the car off to the MOT!

Thanks for all the help so far. Wouldn't have had even a remote clue how to go about this without the forum and help!