What scanner/code reader?

[Lancsbob]

Been reading loads of posts thats included needing a scanner/code reader & realise
that i probably require one. Am an amature mechanic & not brilliant with electronics
so don't want anything too complex.This is all new to me, only had MG's & Triumphs.
Something to read/clear codes etc.
Can anyone tell me what i require to suit my needs.
I have an 02 plate 2.2 not sure if all z3's use the same plugs etc.
Don't want cheap rubbish,something half decent.

Cheers Bob

[colb]

Need to check what diagnostic socket you have on your car either a Round Socket under the bonnet or a 16pin OBD2 socket below the steering wheel, you may have both.

Cheapest option would be to obtain a BMW round diagnostic plug to OBD2 socket and a ELM 327 wifi interface both available on ebay.
To access the interface you need to download an App such as Dash Command on your laptop or mobile phone, once loaded it will connect via wifi to the interface. This setup will read codes and clear them also allow view of live data from the engine.
It will not access the airbag system or reset service lights. Works fine on my 1999 1.8 and other family cars.

For Airbag system you need another cheap interface again obtainable on ebay, same for service light reset.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-E34-E ... 419a44dbe6
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-B800-SRS- ... 2355778afa


If you want to access all of the systems then look at BMW Cables kit on ebay which comes with INPA and DIS SSS software
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-USB-Diagn ... 25a9891d4f
This requires usb connection to a laptop and takes up a lot of hard disc space on the laptop.
Have got this but seem to use the other options I have with the Wifi ELM 327 interface.

Loads of old posts on this subject and I expect others will be along to chip in with what they use.

Certainly any of these will be a good investment which avoids having to pay garages to read and clear codes and will point you in the direction of what has set the codes.

Colb

[Gary-D]

Bob,

I currently have a Peake Research code reader/reset tool that fits the OBD2 port up for auction on ebay Peake Research tools are usualy dearer than others on the market, I had a cheap Draper reset tool which was a waste of money I chucked it in the bin "Better off using a peice of wire for the reset"
I'm not too far from you "Standish" you are welcome to pop round and use the tool before it goes at the weekend, PM me if you want to use it.

Gary

[Lancsbob]

http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427201-O ... +scan+tool

Will this work with an Ipad & does it look any good?
My Brother lives over their & is visiting in Sept

[colb]

Should work on Bluetooth with an Ipad, personally I use the ELM 327 WiFi interface on my Ipad without any problems using the Dash Command App.

Colb

[Mike Fishwick]

Unless you have a problem you do not need a code reader - it is not a necessary part of maintenance routines. I have never needed one in fifteen years of ownership and 130,000 miles. Spend your money on tools instead.

[Lancsbob]

Unless you have a problem you do not need a code reader - it is not a necessary part of maintenance routines. I have never needed one in fifteen years of ownership and 130,000 miles. Spend your money on tools instead.

That sounds encouraging, do you do your own maintenance?
For the cheap price of them i thought it might be a helpful device
to have handy & hope never to have to use it.

Bob

[Lancsbob]

Is it right that you only get limited access to the codes through the OBD2 socket compared with the
under bonnet round socket? IE is it better to get a code reader that fits the round socket.

Bob

[Del]

For my 1998 Z3, I use a cheapo one like the one on this link plus a round socket adapter - very useful and worth their weight in gold as far as I am concerned - I've also successfully used it on several family/friends cars. Some modern cars like my daily Audi A3 require specific manufacturer software (e.g.VAGCOM for Audi/Volkswagon group) which is not widely available and costs several hundred quid

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D900-Vehicle- ... 4d1449c113
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Car-Diagn ... 3ce8bc805f

[colb]

Bob
Yes only limited access to the modules from the 16pin OBD2 socket under the steering wheel, access to all using the 20pin round socket under the bonnet so best get the 20pin to 16pin cable so you can use the under bonnet socket.

Colb

[Mike Fishwick]

Yes, I do all my own maintenance, including items not included in the minimalist BMW schedule, and ignore the service indicator lights, resetting them with a piece of wire.

A lot of people think that a fault code will tell you exactly what is wrong, but they need to be interpreted - in the worst case, I heard of an owner who had a 'Lambda voltage implausible' code, and after replacing a probe twice (!) found that it was trying to warn of a weak mixture casued by a torn inlet bellows!

There is nothing wrong with having a code reader, but they are not a regularly-needed tool - a good pressure bleeder and a multimeter are more useful.

[Lancsbob]

Yes, I do all my own maintenance, including items not included in the minimalist BMW schedule, and ignore the service indicator lights, resetting them with a piece of wire.

A lot of people think that a fault code will tell you exactly what is wrong, but they need to be interpreted - in the worst case, I heard of an owner who had a 'Lambda voltage implausible' code, and after replacing a probe twice (!) found that it was trying to warn of a weak mixture casued by a torn inlet bellows!

There is nothing wrong with having a code reader, but they are not a regularly-needed tool - a good pressure bleeder and a multimeter are more useful.

Funnily enough iv'e just replaced the rubber inlet pipes as they had large holes in them.
Got multimeter but whats a "pressure bleeder" ?

Bob

[Mike Fishwick]

A pressure bleeder is necessary for bleeding dual-circuit brakes - it forces brake fluid into the systems by air pressure. In the old days an assistant used to press the brake pedal to do so, which was a tiresome method for both peole, but with the advent of dual-circuit brakes it became impossible anyway.

The first circuit to be bled will go 'hard' and stop the pedal being pressed down to bleed the second circuit. As the pedal would then feel 'hard' a lot of people used to assume that both systems had been bled, but the car would only be braking on the first circuit, the steering geometry (negative offset) preventing the car from pulling to one side under braking.

[siwilson]

I have a Peake that says in the car, INPA and DIS at home. I have also been playing with the ELM327 readers recently.

IMO the Peake is a really useful thing to have and paid for itself when a coil pack died a couple of years back. Peake read the code, new part from a local ECP and all better again. A tow or garage fee would have cost more than the reader.

Do don't need a reader until something breaks. At which point the reader will likely pay for itself.

[Lancsbob]

A pressure bleeder is necessary for bleeding dual-circuit brakes - it forces brake fluid into the systems by air pressure. In the old days an assistant used to press the brake pedal to do so, which was a tiresome method for both peole, but with the advent of dual-circuit brakes it became impossible anyway.

The first circuit to be bled will go 'hard' and stop the pedal being pressed down to bleed the second circuit. As the pedal would then feel 'hard' a lot of people used to assume that both systems had been bled, but the car would only be braking on the first circuit, the steering geometry (negative offset) preventing the car from pulling to one side under braking.

I see what your saying but even if you use a pressure bleeder how are you sure both are working unless you an MOT brake tester.
So what do you recommend, iv'e tried Gunsons Ezeebleed & i find its c**p but only used it on older cars. Is there a quality product to buy.

Cheers Bob

[Mike Fishwick]

I have found the Gunsons to be fine - after twenty years it still works for me, using an old spare tyre as an air supply. I bleed the brakes annually, and for fluid changes (I do this every couple of years) I use a litre of ATE yellow or blue fluid, the colour change enabling me to see when each line has been fully purged of old fluid. The calipers are fitted with stainless steel bleed nipples, and of course plastic dust caps.

Some people swear that a vacuum bleeder works far better, but I have never found any shortcomings withthe Gunsons device, except that it only holds half a litre of fluid - I would prefer one which holds a full litre. I keep thinking about making my own large-capacity pressure bleeder, but have never got round to it!

[akirk]

I have and use the ELM 327 system recommended above... cheap and works well
And while some might see no value, I was able to read a fault on the car last week and get my mechanic to preorder the lambda sensor (exhaust) I needed - saved a lot of time as otherwise it couldn't have been fixed before the weekend...
so for the cost - why not.

Alasdair

[ralft01]

For my 1998 Z3, I use a cheapo one like the one on this link plus a round socket adapter - very useful and worth their weight in gold as far as I am concerned - I've also successfully used it on several family/friends cars. Some modern cars like my daily Audi A3 require specific manufacturer software (e.g.VAGCOM for Audi/Volkswagon group) which is not widely available and costs several hundred quid

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D900-Vehicle- ... 4d1449c113
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Car-Diagn ... 3ce8bc805f

Does your 1998 Z3 have OBD 2 ? I also have a 1998 model which only has OBD1 capability. If you only have OBD1, what data can you get?