Z3 engine cutting out.

grussell · Post by **grussell** » Wed 15 Jun, 2016 20:23

Hi,

I have an automatic 1997 1.9 Petrol Z3. 69k on the clock, last serviced at 53k.

I was driving into town on Sunday and about 5 minutes into the journey (after filling the tank full) the engine just cut out, with the battery and oil lights illuminated on the dash. I started her right up again and drove to Halfords right away to get the battery checked. They said the battery was fine with no issues and said it could be the alternator. A bit sceptical as I did the headlights and alternator test and the headlights were not flickering when I revved the engine and the battery was clearly being charged by the alternator, as I wouldn't have been able to drive right?

No problems then on Monday or Tuesday but then today as I was driving into work and again, about 5 minutes into the journey, I stalled on a roundabout, quite dangerous but I fired her right back up again with no problems. Drove 15 miles to work and back without any problems. 30 miles round trip.

Checked in the Haynes manual, they said it could be the fuel pump...

Anyone had any similar issues? Any advice?

Lancsbob · Post by **Lancsbob** » Wed 15 Jun, 2016 21:11

Check battery terminals are clean & tight.

Boosh · Post by **Boosh** » Wed 15 Jun, 2016 21:32

Hi, wasn't there a post recently about similar issues due to bad connections on the battery terminals? Certainly would be an easier (and cheaper) fix than changing the fuel pump.
Fingers crossed,

Boosh.

grussell · Post by **grussell** » Wed 15 Jun, 2016 22:05

Boosh wrote:Hi, wasn't there a post recently about similar issues due to bad connections on the battery terminals? Certainly would be an easier (and cheaper) fix than changing the fuel pump.
Fingers crossed,

Boosh.

I'll check them in the light of day tomorrow. I had disconnected the battery in order to take the old cassette radio out last week. Do they sometimes just shift?

Do you think it could be the alternator?

colb · Post by **colb** » Wed 15 Jun, 2016 23:13

To check the alternator start the car and put a voltmeter on the terminals to see what voltage reading you get, with a good alternator you should see in excess of 14volts as it charges the battery. Use the meter to test the battery without engine running and see what state its in good would be 12v +.

I have a small digital volt meter that plugs in the cig lighter which monitors how good the battery is and how the alternator is performing.

I had a bad alternator last year, it was putting out less than 13volts and if used at night with headlamps, next day it was flat.
New alternator fitted resolved the problem.

bertiejaffa · Post by **bertiejaffa** » Thu 16 Jun, 2016 10:41

check the negative terminal - it has been known to come loose, might not seem it but it can

grussell · Post by **grussell** » Thu 16 Jun, 2016 18:25

Yes, just broke down on the motorway as I came off the slip road. A man luckily drove past and offered to tow me home using a rope, I was so grateful.

The engine just stalled as I came off the slip road and as I tried to start her again there was not a lot of power and it just stalled again. I will ask the AA to come and have a look as I don't feel safe driving it right now.

colb · Post by **colb** » Thu 16 Jun, 2016 22:07

Get the AA man to check the output from the alternator if he manages to start the car, if the battery is flat he will probably jump start it, when running he should be able to see what the alternator is putting out. It does sound similar to my bad alternator problem which was low output and running with headlights not enough was put back into the battery resulting in flat battery next day.
Just noticed your Welsh Flag, where are you, anywhere near me?

Del · Post by **Del** » Fri 17 Jun, 2016 09:01

In your last episode it sounds as if you are saying the battery was turning over the engine but it would not start. I would plug the car into an ECU error code reader - personally, I would suspect a failing camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.

grussell · Post by **grussell** » Sat 18 Jun, 2016 11:11

He tested the alternator and battery, said both were fine.

Funnily enough he said the same about the camshaft or crankshaft sensor. Hopefully it's that, as that sounds cheaper and simpler to fix.

colb · Post by **colb** » Sat 18 Jun, 2016 11:50

Can you read the codes, doing so may well narrow the fault down, if either sensor is bad you should get a code set.
Where are you in Wales?

Del · Post by **Del** » Sat 18 Jun, 2016 12:31

If I was laying down a gambling bet

I'd bet on the camshaft position sensor as a faulty crankshaft sensor (they don't seem to go faulty that often) results in a total non-start whereas a camshaft position sensor typically causes running problems and/or intermittent cutting-out when stopping at junctions etc.

BMW sensor (I wouldn't recommend aftermarket sensors) is about £100 for the M44 engine.

Video on the job https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz7RdAL4ARE

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