Shock & bush life expectancy
Shock & bush life expectancy
I'm finding that my car seems to wallow at the rear end leaving bends more than it used to.
I'm guessing that at 68k miles the shocks may need renewing.
Are OEM ones OK or are there better ones available ?
Has anyone else found a noticeable improvement in handling when replacing shocks after this sort of mileage ?
How about bushes.
Do ///M's have the rubber bush issue or are they nylon to start with ?
What is there life expectancy of bushes in terms of miles?
cheers
I'm guessing that at 68k miles the shocks may need renewing.
Are OEM ones OK or are there better ones available ?
Has anyone else found a noticeable improvement in handling when replacing shocks after this sort of mileage ?
How about bushes.
Do ///M's have the rubber bush issue or are they nylon to start with ?
What is there life expectancy of bushes in terms of miles?
cheers
'High G' motoring enthusiast
I changed the shocks, springs and all bushes at 65k miles and the old shocks were pretty much knackered. There was no pressure in the rears at all. After fitting new the ride is much better but the real noticeable difference is grip. There feels to be 50% more lateral grip. I would say that its well worth going for. I'm more than happy with the standard setup but I suppose you have a choice of going for a stiffer setup, if your fillings are up to it
Regarding bushes I saw no problems with any of the old bushes so dont see evidence of degradation there. The standard subframe bushes are soft and are worth changing to solid (Ireland engineering). My rear diff mount looked a bit soft on my car so I simply filled the cavities up with silicone rubber. You could try that with the front subframe mounts too, or buy or make plastic inserts which do the same job. Stiffening up the rear subframe is the best thing you can do after fitted a front brace IMO.
Regarding bushes I saw no problems with any of the old bushes so dont see evidence of degradation there. The standard subframe bushes are soft and are worth changing to solid (Ireland engineering). My rear diff mount looked a bit soft on my car so I simply filled the cavities up with silicone rubber. You could try that with the front subframe mounts too, or buy or make plastic inserts which do the same job. Stiffening up the rear subframe is the best thing you can do after fitted a front brace IMO.
Z3M with a few mods...and a little bit more power
Deano thanks for that info. Much appreciated.
I have Southampton roads to contend with & it's not a track car so for the sake of my fillings I'll stay with standard stiffness. Did you fit OEM or non OEM shocks & did you fit them yourself. If so was it a fairly easy job ?
I'll also take a look at the bushes.
I have Southampton roads to contend with & it's not a track car so for the sake of my fillings I'll stay with standard stiffness. Did you fit OEM or non OEM shocks & did you fit them yourself. If so was it a fairly easy job ?
I'll also take a look at the bushes.
'High G' motoring enthusiast
I have OEM as Ian stated and fitting is easy. Rears are easy and front a bit more difficult. I sense on mine that it was the rear shocks that needed changing. If you get near Leeds I will change em for yaRobin wrote:Deano thanks for that info. Much appreciated.
I have Southampton roads to contend with & it's not a track car so for the sake of my fillings I'll stay with standard stiffness. Did you fit OEM or non OEM shocks & did you fit them yourself. If so was it a fairly easy job ?
I'll also take a look at the bushes.
Z3M with a few mods...and a little bit more power
A little too away far but thanks anywayDeano1712 wrote:If you get near Leeds I will change em for ya
Mine also seems like the problem is at the rear of the car.
By 'standard set up' I wasn't sure whether you'd meant standard complaince shocks & springs, but not necessarily with 'BMW' stamped on them. They don't make shocks as far as I'm aware. They buy them in & badge them then raise the price no doubt. Anyway you clarified that thanks.
I think I may go for the Bilstein Sportline dampers you mention C-W.
Not sure about springs. Do springs fatigue & become softer ?
'High G' motoring enthusiast
Rear Shocks
I've recently changed to Bilstein B6 (www.bilsteintuning.com £110 each) and Rogue Top Mounts (www.evo-s.co.uk £95) keeping the original springs.
The ride is more compliant, the handling excellent - a noticable improvement especially on bumpy corners - and no more clunks from the broken mount.
The B8s with lower springs will give greater stiffness, and make the car look sexier, but probably make the every day ride difficult to live with, and may even damage the handling on all but a smooth track.
I'm really pleased - great value for money!
The ride is more compliant, the handling excellent - a noticable improvement especially on bumpy corners - and no more clunks from the broken mount.
The B8s with lower springs will give greater stiffness, and make the car look sexier, but probably make the every day ride difficult to live with, and may even damage the handling on all but a smooth track.
I'm really pleased - great value for money!
Thats interesting Deano, just wondering if can you elaborate?Deano1712 wrote:...the old shocks were pretty much knackered. There was no pressure in the rears at all.
What sort of/how much pressure is to be expected?
What would be 'No pressure'? ie easily compressed by hand.
Do shocks return to a neutral position naturally or do they rely on the Spring to force them back?
Cheers, JB
John Boy
2.8 Z3
2.8 Z3
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they good for about 50,000 miles thats all
THANKS MARC
looking for a carp fishing hoilday we can help http://www.carpfishingmayenne.com
SYMPTOMS OF A BOOST JUNKY
1. You get excited when it's cold outside.
2. You fill up every three days.
3. The size of your grin is directly proportional to the amount of boost you’re on.
looking for a carp fishing hoilday we can help http://www.carpfishingmayenne.com
SYMPTOMS OF A BOOST JUNKY
1. You get excited when it's cold outside.
2. You fill up every three days.
3. The size of your grin is directly proportional to the amount of boost you’re on.
Replaced rear shocks with Bilstein B6's yesterday. Rear is now much more planted with better grip etc. Hadn't realised how bad the old ones were as they fail gradually & I'd just got used to the situation. I'd assumed it was due to slightly quirky zed characteristics. With them off they just squelched if I compressed them. I think half the oil was gone.
Worth checking them at 50 or 60k miles because as I say they don't always get picked up on MOT !
Thanks again to Mike, C_W & Deano.
Worth checking them at 50 or 60k miles because as I say they don't always get picked up on MOT !
Thanks again to Mike, C_W & Deano.
'High G' motoring enthusiast
Shock life varies greatly, some will last the lifetime of a car and only lose a small "percentage" of their peformance in that time, but others just fail in a shorter space of time like 50k. Might depend on where and how it's driven I suppose. Both my rear dampers were quite weak so they are probably a common failing damper though.