First off is to completely remove the front 1/4 light window. This requires removing the doorcard. Once removed tis will give you access to the two 10mm hex head bolts holding the 1/4 light at the top. They are accessed through two holes at the top front of the door. The third retaining bolt is under the door which holds the foot of the slide to the door, and is used in the final positioning of the window for watertight sealing as well as the smooth movement of the main window up and down.
Once these 3 bolts have been removed, drop the main window down fully, and lift the inside door to 1/4 light window rubber seal..it simply lifts upwards when pulled from the front end.
Now lift the 1/4 light window upwards and with the door fully open, tilt it towrds the back of the car to allow the end to easily pass out of the aperture.
Time to remove the old rubber channel guide / seal...Starting at the bottom and using a flat screwdiver, lift the rubber until you can get a good finger grip on it...now simply pull it out of the window metal channel all the way up until completely removed.
You will probably have contact adhesive remains in the metal channel which must be removed thoroughly so that whe yoyu fit the new rubber guide it will seat smoothly and effectively. I cut off two x 20mm sections of the old rubber guide and super glued them as stoppers at either end of the metal channel (see pic). With the two ends blocked off I poured "CONTACT GLUE REMOVER / SOLVENT" into the metal channel and left it to do it's disolving thing on the contact glue reidue in the channel. You could simply use the solvent and some fine wire wool, but that's like too much PT...I'm lazy, and would rather allow the solvent to completely soften and disolve the old glue while I have a cuppa etc...
Once all the old glue is removed, and you have a perfectly clean metal channel, it's time to prep the new rubber guide.
All rubber (and plastic) moulded items arrive with a residue of release agent on the surface. This release agent is what allows it to be easily removed from it's manufacturing mould..and it is lethal to contact glue as it refuses the contact glue a decent surface to key into. So, some fine (1000 grit) paper and the entire length of the contact area of the rubber guide must be rubbed until it is dull. The more careful you are in doing this, the better the rubber guide will adhere in the metal channel. Once you have sanded it, clean it with a clean cloth dipped into some of the contact glue removing solvent to remove any rubber dust and to make the rubber slightly sticky.
Coat both the rubber guide and the metal channel with "ExTRA STRONG" contact glue and allow to mostly dry..DON'T ALLOW IT TO DRY TOO MUCH AS YOU WILL STRUGGLE TO GET THE RUBBER GUIDE INTO THE METAL CHANNEL !!
The glue must still be wet enough to allow you to slip the rubber guide into the channel and ensure it is positioned correctly. Start at the top where the window glass comes to a point and ensure it is seated correctly then proceed down the length of the metal channel to the bottom.
Use a flat screwdriver inserted into the rubber guide to press the bottom of the rubber guide base onto the base of the metal channel.
Once you have it all inserted leave it to dry in the sun for some hours..( If you don't have sun...leave it for as long as you can...days would be good if the weather is cool and damp) The contact glue must thoroughly dry before you operate the window. If after a few hours you re-fit the window to the car, close the main window completely, and leave it closed for days...it will apply pressure to the inside of the rubber guide and press it against the sides of the underlying metal channel.
The longer you can leave it undisturbed the better is the key. The contact glue will take some time to evaporate in a closed environment between the rubber guide and the metal channel...
As in all projects, the more careful and patient you are, the better the results of your efforts. Also, ultimately, the less expensive.
