I managed to pick up the uprated roll bar with links and bushes for rediculous money. (£2.50)
Two questions can i uprate the rear and leave the front standard (already has poly bushes) if not can i twin it with a Z3m version?
H & R anti roll bar
- SledgeHammer
- Joined: Tue 10 May, 2005 17:31
- Posts: 323
- Contact:
No and no, just sell them to me for double the money!
Adding more bar in front or back will affect the handling in different ways, even more so when your Z is lowered. In "theory", using a thicker bar in the rear will result in more oversteer, something that is not recommended for most drivers, as understeer is easier to correct than oversteer at moments you're not expecting your car to go sideways. "Understeered" is how most BMW's are set up from factory.
Besides the handling factor, the Z's have a very weak subframe in the rear as you may already know, adding more bar will increase the stress on the subframe, resulting in cracks and popped spotwelds. Not saying this will happen, but it all adds up.
I would recommend upgrading both front and back, by doing so you will add stiffness when cornering while keeping the handling neutral. You can also start at the front and work from there.
AFAIK the ///M frontbar has different endlinks and will require different shocks in the front. ///M's have the mounting point at the shock, while the ones on the normal Z's are connected at the controlarm.
How did you lower the car? If you only replaced the springs, a coilover set would be a good next step, in combination with camber plates for the fronts. Adding or removing bars usually comes after that.
Adding more bar in front or back will affect the handling in different ways, even more so when your Z is lowered. In "theory", using a thicker bar in the rear will result in more oversteer, something that is not recommended for most drivers, as understeer is easier to correct than oversteer at moments you're not expecting your car to go sideways. "Understeered" is how most BMW's are set up from factory.
Besides the handling factor, the Z's have a very weak subframe in the rear as you may already know, adding more bar will increase the stress on the subframe, resulting in cracks and popped spotwelds. Not saying this will happen, but it all adds up.
I would recommend upgrading both front and back, by doing so you will add stiffness when cornering while keeping the handling neutral. You can also start at the front and work from there.
AFAIK the ///M frontbar has different endlinks and will require different shocks in the front. ///M's have the mounting point at the shock, while the ones on the normal Z's are connected at the controlarm.
How did you lower the car? If you only replaced the springs, a coilover set would be a good next step, in combination with camber plates for the fronts. Adding or removing bars usually comes after that.
- SledgeHammer
- Joined: Tue 10 May, 2005 17:31
- Posts: 323
- Contact:
The only bar that can be compared like for like is the rear as the locating points are the same on the body and trailing arms, but on the front the leverage of the droplink on the bar is different non-m vs z3m.Zedonist wrote:The H&R Front Stabiliser is 28mm diameter, the 2.0 had either a 24mm or 25mm in Msport pack.
On the rear the H&R is 19mm, and the 2.0 is 15mm.
The M Front stabiliser is a different design so will not fit non M cars but is 23mm in diameter with an 18mm diameter rear.
This suggests that normal Z3's are set up for neutral handling compared to more agressive on the M version, so possibly by changing just the rear you will get Z3M like handling characteristics.