Z1 Will not start

[Bazzer]

Hi all
Having driven my Z1 out of the garage to fit new plugs all ok let it run up for a bit then put it away . Left it for a week went out to drive out of garage again and it will not start it has a strong spark and cranks over ok but doesn’t seem to have fuel the only thing that seems different is that the revcounter needle moves right round to the stop and back when you first crank it. It has a alarm and immobiliser fitted and I’m thinking it’s the immobiliser but before I pull all the dash apart thought I’d ask

[Stoertie]

Immobiliser may be the problem. More and more of these are having problems. The relay contacts inside are old and the contacts inside are more and more worn.
We have had the same problem in our blue Z1... sometimes the engine starts, sometimes not. After uninstalling the immobiliser we have had no further problems.

An other point to check might be the fuel pump.

regards
Michael

[Bazzer]

Thanks for the reply Stoertie you have confirmed my thoughts.and your English is perfect

[Stoertie]

[survivalist]

I’m having the same issue, but no 3rd party immobiliser or alarm fitted and I’m assuming that these don’t come with them fitted from the factory.

Turns over fine, so I’m assuming it’s either a lack of fuel getting to the engine or a lack of spark.

Didn’t have time to look into it, but I did notice that when the key goes from position 1 to position 2 there are 2 clicks in quick succession. Could these be relays / solenoids for the fuel pump / ignition system. It’s been so long that I’ve forgotten what noises these cars make on startup.

Also, what tools are available to diagnose issues? I’m assuming these pre-date OBD2 readers?

Thanks in advance for any ideas/help.

[Jet]

Turns over fine, so I’m assuming it’s either a lack of fuel getting to the engine or a lack of spark.
Didn’t have time to look into it, but I did notice that when the key goes from position 1 to position 2 there are 2 clicks in quick succession. Could these be relays / solenoids for the fuel pump / ignition system. It’s been so long that I’ve forgotten what noises these cars make on startup.

Issue with the Coil?
From memory there is a buzzing sound from position 2, also get someone to listen from the rear for a humming noise when the fuel pump kicks in.

[bluejay]

You may want to check the vacuum hose that runs from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator.

This line was porous and couldn't create sufficient vac to allow the regulator to work which meant that starting was difficult and also caused an increase in fuel usage.

[survivalist]

Turns over fine, so I’m assuming it’s either a lack of fuel getting to the engine or a lack of spark.
Didn’t have time to look into it, but I did notice that when the key goes from position 1 to position 2 there are 2 clicks in quick succession. Could these be relays / solenoids for the fuel pump / ignition system. It’s been so long that I’ve forgotten what noises these cars make on startup.

Issue with the Coil?
From memory there is a buzzing sound from position 2, also get someone to listen from the rear for a humming noise when the fuel pump kicks in.

Tried again today, I’m getting the buzzing and the electrics seem to be working fine. What’s the buzzing relate to - spark or fuel?

[survivalist]

You may want to check the vacuum hose that runs from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator.

This line was porous and couldn't create sufficient vac to allow the regulator to work which meant that starting was difficult and also caused an increase in fuel usage.

Thanks for the tip. Had a look today and all the hoses seem in excellent condition. In fact, apart from a bit of dust the car looks to be in great condition, that and the starting issue.

Work, young children and a pandemic have had a significant impact on Z1 use in the past few years, but I’m determined that 2023 will see some mileage being piled on.

[Bazzer]

Hi all just ordered a new dual pump when we took it out of the tank and added power it was getting hot and not running
The clicking sound under the bonnet is the air valve and tube on the vacuum valve all ok so keep fingers crossed

[SAM19]

Bonjour à tous j'avais eu le même problème, sur mon z1 c'était le capteur PMH et ma pompe à essence qui était HS

[Bazzer]

Hi all
New pump was the answer run great just going to put under tray back on then some interior work

[Bazzer]

Hi all
Well the Saga with the pump goes on,when the new pump arrived from BMW it looked a bit second hand but thought it may have been standing around for a while,well it ran for about 30min turned of then came back to it 2 days later and it wouldn’t start and the pump was making a grinding sound like bearing gone so contacted BMW to say pump has seized up after and was still clean with no bits in filter they are not interested unless I take car to main dealer for them to assess ,this I cannot do as Z in pieces and it’s a pump that’s under warranty,so I have fitted a Osias pump to the old fittings after a small mod and replating working great .should have gone this route to start with
So the next thing is to have words with BMW so watch this space.

[NeilGezAd]

Bazzer,

Had exactly same problem with “brand new” fuel pump supplied by BMW dealer in SE England. Independent dealer fitted it - initially worked fine and then two days later stopped working. The garage had to take it to franchise dealer to check it and they refitted with new part. At c £450(?) a pop you’d think they’d be more reliable.

Good luck.

Neil

[Harlan]

Michael
may of the same problems electically
what was involved in removing the alarm/immobilier?
read that it is a nightmare
thanks
Harlan

[Stoertie]

Hi Harlan,

yes, maybe it will be a nightmare...

I'll make it easy for myself and use the deepL-translator for the following...

The immobiliser normally interrupts the power supply to the fuel pump, the ignition and the control of the starter motor.
For each of the three assemblies, there are two cables on the immobiliser control unit, which are marked when delivered so that you know which belong together. These markings should be removed after installation so that the thief does not immediately know which cables belong together.
Either the markings are still present in your case, in which case you theoretically only need to connect the cables that belong together, or they are not marked, in which case you need to trace the cables and find out where they were connected to the car's wiring harness.

regards
Michael