Shaking steering wheel? Please help!
Shaking steering wheel? Please help!
Hello all,
I experienced a problem at the weekend and wonder if any of you chaps have heard of experienced similar.
Driving on the A131 about 70ish when I noticed a severe vibration through the steering wheel. So much so the steering wheel itself was shaking quite violently (moving from left to right about 4 inches. I pulled over at the earliest opportunity and smelt a faint smell of burning from the front of the car, and the tyres had a small bit of steam coming from them – I have no idea if this is normal (tyres must have been reasonably warm and the road was damp in the service station).
Anyway, on driving home the problem seemed to right itself… really odd. Could this be the road surface vs tyres? (Eagle F1s) or is this more likely to be a ball joint or wheel bearing type of issue?
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Buzz
I experienced a problem at the weekend and wonder if any of you chaps have heard of experienced similar.
Driving on the A131 about 70ish when I noticed a severe vibration through the steering wheel. So much so the steering wheel itself was shaking quite violently (moving from left to right about 4 inches. I pulled over at the earliest opportunity and smelt a faint smell of burning from the front of the car, and the tyres had a small bit of steam coming from them – I have no idea if this is normal (tyres must have been reasonably warm and the road was damp in the service station).
Anyway, on driving home the problem seemed to right itself… really odd. Could this be the road surface vs tyres? (Eagle F1s) or is this more likely to be a ball joint or wheel bearing type of issue?
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Buzz
I wouldn't have thought road tyres would get hot enough to steam, at least not with normal driving. Was it just one tyre, or all four? If just one tyre, then it sounds like something stuck between the tyre and the car - in which case you may be able to see damage to the tyre and/or the wheelarch liner. I would take the offending wheel off and have a good look.
Far more heat is generated from the brakes, and if these are rubbing you can get some scary temperatures generated - you can feel this if the centre of the wheel is hot as the heat gets conducted through from the hub. Again, I'd take the wheel off and have a look behind at the brakes.
Cheers R.
Far more heat is generated from the brakes, and if these are rubbing you can get some scary temperatures generated - you can feel this if the centre of the wheel is hot as the heat gets conducted through from the hub. Again, I'd take the wheel off and have a look behind at the brakes.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
this sounds like a binding brake caliper when they get hot they expand and grab the disk making your wheels shake and the pads get hot and burn its normal the seals in the calipers have dirt if car been stood for a bit common but could be grit from all the snow try hosing the brakes down if that not work they need cleaning
I would think it's a Brake issue, sticky caliper ?
Gazza
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster , BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M Coupe
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster , BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M Coupe
hey had the very same problem on my 840...
sticking caliper front nearside, the vibration was untrue! I couldnt actually see properly because the vibration was wobbling the car about so much!
FYI, getting your caliper stripped back and refurbished is basically the same as getting a new one, as it comes with the same warranty period. Mine came back as good as new, worked perfectly.
The difference is the price. On an 840 the price new was £821. Refurbished was £120.
If you want the details, I can probably try and dig it out?
sticking caliper front nearside, the vibration was untrue! I couldnt actually see properly because the vibration was wobbling the car about so much!
FYI, getting your caliper stripped back and refurbished is basically the same as getting a new one, as it comes with the same warranty period. Mine came back as good as new, worked perfectly.
The difference is the price. On an 840 the price new was £821. Refurbished was £120.
If you want the details, I can probably try and dig it out?
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- Joined: Thu 10 Aug, 2006 19:51
- Posts: 391
- Location: Teesside
almost 100% sure it will be a sticking brake caliper. Has same issue on my old MC. Couldnt really beleive all that vibration could come from one sticking caliper.
Current: S50, black/Black. Becker HU, AP Racing BBK, Racelogic TC
Ex: S50 Coupe, Black with Kyalami Orange/Black Leather. ACS Suspension. HID's/Angel Eyes. Becker Bluetooth/Ipod HU.
Ex: S50 Coupe, Black with Kyalami Orange/Black Leather. ACS Suspension. HID's/Angel Eyes. Becker Bluetooth/Ipod HU.
Buzz said that the fault later disappeared so it's unlikely to be a missing weight.
Sticking calipers used to be a problem on the pre GM Saabs that I used to run,partly because pre 87 the handbrake mechanism operated on the front discs.This would cause excessive vibration
There are new/refurbished front calipers on Ebay for between £40 and £110.
If the hydraulic fluid is changed every 2 years as sugested by BMW and many other manufacturers because of its hydroscopic properties,corrosion and the resulting sticking pistons can be minimized.
Sticking calipers used to be a problem on the pre GM Saabs that I used to run,partly because pre 87 the handbrake mechanism operated on the front discs.This would cause excessive vibration
There are new/refurbished front calipers on Ebay for between £40 and £110.
If the hydraulic fluid is changed every 2 years as sugested by BMW and many other manufacturers because of its hydroscopic properties,corrosion and the resulting sticking pistons can be minimized.
In case you don't know the cure is to get your wheels balanced for a few quid, try before spending lots on brakeshenrycrun wrote:Someones gotta say it, before you start check that you haven't thrown a wheel balance weight
I have been diagnosed with ADHOTS. Attention Deficit Hyperactive Ohh That's Shiney
Sounds like a sticking brake caliper to me. I had exactly this problem on my 2.8 when I first got it.
An easy check would be to raise the car on one side, apply and then release the footbrake, and then see if you can turn the raised wheel by hand. If you've got a sticky caliper then I suspect you'll struggle to turn the offending wheel.
An easy check would be to raise the car on one side, apply and then release the footbrake, and then see if you can turn the raised wheel by hand. If you've got a sticky caliper then I suspect you'll struggle to turn the offending wheel.
Current...1998 ///M Coupe
Previously...1997 Z3 2.8
Previously...1997 Z3 2.8
I've had this same problem twice in the past and both times it was a slightly worn bottom ball joint. The car would be fine for miles and then a violent vibration would occur only to cease again after a few miles. It's a cheap enough fix at about 60 to 70 quid per balljoint including parts and labour at a decent specialist garage.
I had the same problem xmas eve when starting a journey down to Burnley from my home, only managed to get 18 miles before we had to stop at the service station for me to check an increasinly violent wheelshake. Turned out that it was the o/s caliper siezing - so back home and off to Arnold Clark for a hire car for the weekend.
I Picked up an exchange unit from a local Europarts and fitted and bled the brakes within two hours, very easy diy job.
The caliper and new pads cost just under 100GBP, and I intend to replace the other caliper this month too and add a little paint to smarten the look of the brake areas when i do the oil change at the same time.
I Picked up an exchange unit from a local Europarts and fitted and bled the brakes within two hours, very easy diy job.
The caliper and new pads cost just under 100GBP, and I intend to replace the other caliper this month too and add a little paint to smarten the look of the brake areas when i do the oil change at the same time.