S.O.S. Passenger door won't open, help!

[Bonzo]

I thought I had sorted out my intermittant passenger door central locking problem, but NO! I cannot open it with the central locking or the key. It hasn't worked since being up on a car lift, (well it worked to lock the car afterwards, but I haven't been able to unlock it since). The rest of the central locking (drivers door and boot) are all working ok. This points to the actuator being the cause I guess? Could it be a wire has come adrift from the actuator (no sound of actuator working) or is it likely that the actuator has failed or is just stuck and needs lubricating? Also how do I get access to the actuator with the door locked shut. Has anyone been able to do this without wrecking the door card? There is a thread on door card removal on the K/base I know, but can anyone take me through either how to get the door open or to remove the door card with the door locked shut? Pics would be helpful if available. Cheers, guys

Many thanks in anticipation,

Bonzo.

[pingu]

Bar (11 in top diag) connects into the lock where the 1 is pointing to on the lower diag. This connection is mechanical (not electronic). I am assuming that you have tried opening the door from inside. The first pull of the handle should unlock the door and the second pull should open the door.

Hopefully the images will help.

[Bonzo]

No go I'm afraid Pingu, I pull the inside door handle and the button pops up, but the door stays locked. When I release the handle the button pops down again. pulling it twice has no affect, neither does holding the button up when the handle is released, or trying the outside door handle in any of the aforementioned proceedures. Any other suggestions, anybody? Mike F.?

Cheers Pingu,

Bonzo.

[gookah]

. I am assuming that you have tried opening the door from inside. The first pull of the handle should unlock the door and the second pull should open the door..

not if its deadlocked, the mechanism is internally disengaged so that the door cannot be opened when the roof is down using the inner handle. It will pop the button, but not engage with the lock,

It has to be done by applying a voltage, if that is not possible the door card will have to come off. I have heard it is possible to remove the card with the door shut, but how, I am not sure...

[BladeRunner919]

Before you start trying to remove the door card with the door shut, I'm wondering if you should just have another look at the boot loom - I know you found one problem already and, as you know, these can cause all sorts of weird and wonderful problems. It's definitely worth a look.

Otherwise I guess you have no option but to try and get into the door. If you do have to, then I'd suggest removing the seat to give you room to work.

[Southernboy]

Try standing outside the car with your butt lined up with the door handle, and give it a bump inwards towards the car while simultaneously pressing the central locking button on the key...it may be stuck under some pressure since the car was on the lift...it you do get it open, then remove the doorcard and service accordingly...or contact Stupot5 who has a z3 he is considering breaking and get a replacement actuator from him...I doubt you will be able to remove the doorcard with the door shut...or you may have to remove the rubber door seal on the inside to allow the doorcard to be removed...Also, lower the roof, and try both pushing down and pulling up on the door whilst activating the central locking...if all fail and you've checked the loom...it may have to be going in via the doorcard route...

[Bonzo]

Loom checked S.B. all ok. Swamper said he removed the door card from his locked door by working down from the top. I guess I'm going to have to try and do this!

Anyone else removed a door card from a locked door? Any hints or tips?

Cheers all,

Bonzo.

[Brian H]

I am unsure if the deadlocking for the door is mechanical or electrical? From gookahs post it does sound electrical. Try disconnecting the battery and opening the door from the inside again whilst the battery is disconnected (two pulls of the handle), maybe worth a try before tackling the door card.

[Southernboy]

If by "deadlocking" you refer to the action of using the key to "deadlock" a door after the remote has been used to centrally lock all locks, then from my past experience, the key will need to unlock the specific door that it has been used on again to allow the central locking system to be useful...ie. the central locking system will not unlock the car on that door...I know it worked that way on my old e30...it may be different on the Z3 / e36.

[Robert T]

The doors can't be locked individually on the zed, other than by pressing the door button - whilst on the driver's side this operates the central locking, on the passenger side it just locks that door. I'm not sure any Z3's got key locks on the passenger side - mine just has one on the driver's door. Locking with the remote, or locking the car using the door lock engages the deadlock and the inside handles then cannot be used to release the door. If you operate the central locking by pushing the driver's door button, then the doors can be released with two pulls of the handle - the first pull releases the central locking (passenger side just releases that door) and the second pull opens the door as normal. I'm only going from memory here, but I'm pretty sure that is right.

The boot can be disengaged from the central locking by locking it with the key, but instead of returning the lock to the vertical position, if you remove the key with it still horizontal, the boot will stay locked no matter how you operate the central locking, and must be unlocked with the key. This may also be referred to as deadlocking the boot.

And no, I don't know how the deadlock mechanism for the door actually works either.

Cheers R.

[gookah]

If by "deadlocking" you refer to the action of using the key to "deadlock" a door after the remote has been used to centrally lock all locks, then from my past experience, the key will need to unlock the specific door that it has been used on again to allow the central locking system to be useful...ie. the central locking system will not unlock the car on that door...I know it worked that way on my old e30...it may be different on the Z3 / e36.

the newer type key remote (not sure about the alarm fob type) which has the buttons built in the key automatically deadlocks on locking, This is easily found out by trying the fuel filler cap. If that is locked, the car is deadlocked.
The difference can be highlighted by pressing a door lock button on the top of the door, the fuel filler does not lock. This will only 'lock' the car but not deadlock it, and two pulls of the interior handle will still open it...... not what you want people doing when the car is parked with the roof down,

A deadlocked door will not open from inside, deadlocking is also done using the remote on the key, and not just key in door lock, (it does on facelift models, not sure about pre-facelift or the triangular separate alarm fob)
When I fitted my pager alarm I had to find all the relevant outputs from the ZKE 4 module, as mine has auto-lock on driving.

The OP's problem may not be this but a mechanical problem anyway.

[Bonzo]

Spot on Robert, re locking with the drivers door key and the remote 'blipper.' This is turning into a right pain. Can you convert the passenger door to key locked type while retaining the existng central locking operation? If so I will consider this once I can get into the door.
Keep the suggestions and tips coming, if there are anymore!
Thanks to all, cheers,

Bonzo.

[Bonzo]

Gookah, my fuel cap lock is the old key locked only type, not connected to the central locking in any way!

Bonzo.

[BladeRunner919]

Spot on Robert, re locking with the drivers door key and the remote 'blipper.' This is turning into a right pain. Can you convert the passenger door to key locked type while retaining the existng central locking operation? If so I will consider this once I can get into the door.
Keep the suggestions and tips coming, if there are anymore!
Thanks to all, cheers,

Bonzo.

I guess that you could buy a handle and mechanism from a LHD car that would have a key barrel in it, as it would be the driver's side. Not sure how easily you could get the lock barrel matched to your car though, so you might end up with another key. I don't know whether E36s had a lock on both sides - that would be an alternative route.

[BonBon]

On the assumption that the actuator is stuck mechanically - I see that you already had advice from SA to bang the handle area with an open palm while simultaneously trying to open manually.
Another thing I would try is - opening the window and plastering the actuator area with WD40 in the hope that you with release the stuck mechanism. I oiled an intermittent fault with an actuator with success (I think 6 months so far). Even with the door card removed it was hard to get to the right place with the WD-40 with the dedicated straw.

[gookah]

Gookah, my fuel cap lock is the old key locked only type, not connected to the central locking in any way!

Bonzo.

Aahh not facelift then,...I am not sure on the deadlocking arrangements of the prefacelift cars. You should still be able to tell the difference with the door button, By trying the drivers door interior handle, you will tell the difference between deadlocked and not, if the door opens from inside.
but that won't help your problem, just describing how the system works...

[Bonzo]

I contacted an Indy I've used b4 re. this problem and he said if you go down the disconnect battery route you can damage some control boxes. To be honest I'm in the process of moving to Aylsham in Norfolk (waiting for contracts to be exchanged) and am very busy sorting stuff for this so I'm going to let the Indy sort it out.

How does one join The East Anglian Crew? Do you have to swear an oath and mix blood with another member,or is it more involved than that? Anyway, I would like to join!

Cheers, and thanks for all your help and advice,

Bonzo.

[BladeRunner919]

I contacted an Indy I've used b4 re. this problem and he said if you go down the disconnect battery route you can damage some control boxes.

Load of rubbish. Get a better mechanic.

[Trevsky]

Bonzo,
I can confirm the door card can be removed with the door shut. Exactly the same thing happened to mine and I was able to pull the door card from the bottom and managed to get it off. I then was able to release the door lock mechanism by fiddling about with the latch where the door plunger rod attaches. I don't know how or why but it worked. I even repeated the operation after re closing the door. My problem was the actuator solemoid which I replaced with one from a scrap yard and it has been fine since. Good luck

[gookah]

How does one join The East Anglian Crew? Do you have to swear an oath and mix blood with another member,or is it more involved than that? Anyway, I would like to join!
.

ask Badman..... he has a 'special' initiation ceremony....

[Bonzo]

I'm all ears, sounds interesting BMG!

Bonzo.

[firebladeboy]

I know this is an old thread and people HATE to have old threads come back to life but I was just in this position and wanted to share how I opened the door for anyone else who's in the same boat.

1. I sprayed a ton of WD40 down the window slot with the window wound down and let it sit over night
2. I pushed the lock button on the door DOWN while using the fob to unlock. I felt the button pulse and was able to open the door with the handle after that.

Power door lock still isn't working for this lock but at least I can open the door and remove the door trim now to investigate!

Hope this helps someone.

Cheers!