cam sensor part numbers

[littlefeller]

as title, does anyone happen to know the correct part number for this part - 98 m44 engine, there is a lot of discrepancy's if you google this part. there is also a wide difference in prices some are listed as m44 but are quite obviously not (maybe m43/42) the one for the m44 saloon is also different to the z

here is one I can find - 12141743072, but the diagram doesn't match

[Jonco]

as title, does anyone happen to know the correct part number for this part - 98 m44 engine, there is a lot of discrepancy's if you google this part. there is also a wide difference in prices some are listed as m44 but are quite obviously not (maybe m43/42) the one for the m44 saloon is also different to the z

here is one I can find - 12141743072, but the diagram doesn't match

I agree difficult to find. I have read several threads on various forums where non-OEM sensors have given problems when fitted. I think this is one part where I would bite the bullet cost wise and go to the dealer.

[Jonco]

I think it is described as a Pulse Generator - have a look at Part 14 on
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=10&hl=21

[t-tony]

In principal I would agree with Jonco as I have had this experience with my car this last year,all be it on a 2.0 6cyl. However Euro car parts do offer cheaper after market items which are not probably made to last(ok for the trade and anyone selling a car) but also they offer non genuine OEM spec ones at a lower price than main dealer. This what I used.As usual it's your choice

[littlefeller]

yeh I looked on realoem but again there different, the pulse generator is on the m43 while on the m44 it is described as a trigger. I think they operate on a different principle, the m43 judging by its description is simply a coil, while the m44 (trigger) is prob a proximity sensor,matbe one is a hall effect switch of some kind while the other isnt. I did consider just cutting the old out then splicing in the new (just sensor found on ebay) saving me the hassle of stripping, however on further analyses it appears this is not possible as the sensors are different depending on engine model.

[littlefeller]

part 6
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=10

I think the other part is the crankshaft sensor

[t-tony]

I changed both on mine with the inlet cam one being the higher priced OEM spec one but the lower priced one for the exhaust cam (the one which gave problems) was the lower spec one. Got that one changed under warranty and up to now all is well.

[littlefeller]

ok folks, just found this
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... =5&t=35714

what a hassle eh
thanks for all the posts.

[t-tony]

I changed the crank sensor on mine too. Not an easy job on the 6cyl even on a ramp at work. Never done one on a 4 so I can't comment on how easy/hard that may be.

[littlefeller]

its the camshaft sensor so isn't to difficult, yeh crankshaft sensor would prob be under car jobie, but camshaft isn't, I just have to remove the intake

[littlefeller]

im still tempted with the lazy fix I buy a new sensor, then I cut the lead from the old sensor while its still in situ, then test the old sensor with a meter. if sensor is knackered then its a simple case of splicing the new one in without having to take apart anything apart from removing the old sensor. does anyone happen to know the resistor values for the sensor, I tried googling with no joy

[littlefeller]

on second thoughts, this test isn't going to show anything without the engine running, so I should trust the error codes and conclude the sensor is at fault, ok splicing is now an option though after spending good money on a replacement it would be a shame to cut the wire so I may as well do it properly skimmed knuckles here we come again

[Del]

I’ve changed the cam position sensor on my 1998 M44. Part number is B12.14.1.743.072. You need to remove the MAF bellows and remove the top of the inlet manifold (3 X 10mm bolts on top, lightly torqued at 11 ft/lbs) and the two sliding bracket bolts front and back. You also need to unplug the two sensors at the front (ICV and TPS) and remove the small rubber vacuum pipe. The whole assembly can then be lifted and placed to the side.

The M44 cam sensor has a lengthy wire running to the ECU which still runs under a lot of engine pipes and accessories – you will need to tie a piece of string to the ECU socket end when pulling it out so that you can use the same string to pull back the new one. When you fit the new one make sure you leave enough of the cable exposed at the front to reach the hole where the sensor plugs in – the cable should have a green mark to help with this.

The only other thing to consider is whether you need a new rubber o ring (B12.14.1.748.398) to stop possible future oil loss. You need to be careful removing the cam position sensor wire from the plastic frame (as this frame is delicate) guiding the cam wire around the front corner of the engine.

Whilst you have the top of the manifold removed, check the little tree of 4 vacuum pipes going to each injector – they split with age just where they bulge over the injector connection. Two of mine where split underneath – quite difficult to see without removing them.

When I did all this and cleaned my throttle body butterfly valve, the car ran noticeably better.