Collinite # 845

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Southernboy
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Collinite # 845

Post by Southernboy » Sat 06 Oct, 2018 13:43

I've been looking at waxes, their benefits and comparisons to polishes.
So first thing I discovered in the reading is that a polish is an abrasive. It actually removes a fine layer of the clear coat in the process of application and buffing. This is really great if you have swirl marks or extremely fine scratches in the surface, although a clay bar might work equally well at removing those swirls without all the effort of applying a polish and then buffing the residue off.
Next- Synthetic polishes will provide longer term protection than any wax. A really good synthetic will give you around 6-8 months of protection vs around 4-5 months for a really good wax. If you're the type of person who doesn't enjoy waxing 2 - 3 times a year, then a product like Meguiar's Ultimate polish will be a good choice.
However, there's still the issue of the polish actually stripping of clear coat molecules - are you okay with that is the decision to be made.
So, now to the wax job - The best wax is Carnauba. Everyone seems to be in consensus on that score.
The problems generally associated with waxing is the labour involved. We all like to do the job, but if it takes hours and hours and at the end of the job your body feels as though you've been at the gym for the first time in years, it might dissuade you from waxing. There are waxes like that on the market.
So I had a look at the top 10 waxes and polishes that were rated this year. On the list was a product called Collinite No. 845. Doesn't sound quite as glamorous as Mother's or Meguair's or any other number of well advertised brands. It sounds almost "industrial", and so it should since it was initially developed for aircraft, marine applications and machinery. Given those credentials, one would expect the product would be difficult to work with. I had never come across it before, so I dug deeper. Some reading material revealed that it has been around since the early 1900's. Also I discovered that it is considered the best kept secret by professional detailers. But what totally blew me away was a short You Tube video demonstrating it's application to a car and the end results.
First off it needs to be warmed up to get it to be a liquid. In cold weather it is a thick paste. successful application is based on the "less is more" principal. Very thin coat, and buff before it is fully dry. So, small areas at a time - the bottle recommends 2' x 2'.
The research claims by users, agree that it will provide exceptional protection for up to 5 months - conditions dependent.
In the video, it was shown to have superb hydrophobic properties, and the "beading" was minimal since the bulk of the water just ran off the surface. I noted that it was applied to the windshield in the video, which was a little puzzling, but perhaps it is applicable.
It is 100% wax with some petroleum distillates added to keep it in paste form. It contains no abrasives - strictly a wax.
I have now bought the stuff, and also a bottle of the Meguiar's Ultimate polish. In another article, it was suggested that the car surface 1st be polished with a product such as Meguiar's, and then waxed.
So, this looks like a 2 weekend job - 1st stage, wash and polish, 2nd stage, wash and wax. There-after, I will just wax since the polish should be sealed under the wax for at least a year, and perhaps two.
The grand description on the somewhat humble plastic containers boasts " For Automotive, Marine, RV, Aeronautical and Industrial use" - It describes itself as a "Heavy duty paste" and an "Insulator wax". Apparently it was used as an electrical insulator wax back in the day.
If anyone else has used this product, I would welcome their comments.
"Normal is overrated"
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Gazza
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Re: Collinite # 845

Post by Gazza » Sat 06 Oct, 2018 18:57

Strange you should post this, I’ve been reading up on sealants, polishes and waxes.

I agree that the car should be polished then waxed.

If a sealant has been used then it’s pointless to wax on that.

I was looking at Collinite 476

I waxed the Z4 yesterday using a wax that has been in the garage for years, I did one panel at a time, pouring down with rain today and water is flowing off nicely.
Gazza

"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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Southernboy
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Location: Johannesburg

Re: Collinite # 845

Post by Southernboy » Sat 06 Oct, 2018 19:33

Hi Gazza
I looked at that too !
My reluctance was mostly that I would be putting in more effort to buff it after application. Here in Johannesburg, the temperature out in the sun is probably in the upper 30's. In my garage with the windows and door open it's still warm enough to keep the 845 in a thin liquid state in the bottle, but it dries within 30 seconds and becomes difficult to buff by hand.
So I've been applying it with both the applicator in one hand and a microfibre buff cloth in the other hand. Basically it's wax on to aprox 2' square and buff off pretty sharply.
I felt if I used the thicker paste, I would need to use a dual action polishing tool to buff with, which would be a real PITA in the more tricky areas.
TBH, I'm really impressed with the 845. I have never achieved such a brilliant result with any other wax product. It's like a "wet look" result.
One thing I read earlier in the evening on google, was a fella saying he uses a Meguair's polish to begin with and then wipes the polished surface with "rubbing alchohol" before applying the Collinite. He reckoned the polish being a synthetic nano type stuff should be used to polish away swirls etc, but not left on the paint in any way since it is a slightly abrasive substance, and adding wax on top of it will mean your wax coat is contaminated with an abrasive. Makes sense I guess - what do you think?
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Gazza
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Re: Collinite # 845

Post by Gazza » Sat 06 Oct, 2018 19:44

I don’t think a polish is abrasive enough to remove swirl marks, you’d need a compound and a machine to do that effectively.

Maybe just clay bar then polish then wax.

I’ve used a Meguires 3 stage cleaner/polish/wax in the past which was very good (after using a clay bar first)
Gazza

"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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Southernboy
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Re: Collinite # 845

Post by Southernboy » Sun 07 Oct, 2018 08:58

Here's a very interesting You Tube video - It would make the Z3 rear window as good as the windscreen !!

Link:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzrYZXdhVwg
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DC
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Re: Collinite # 845

Post by DC » Tue 09 Oct, 2018 09:07

I've been using it (845) for several years and it's everything Southernboy says, the best and easiest I've ever used.
It lasts the winter season so twice a year application is enough for me.
It's fine on side windows but I try to avoid getting it on the windscreen as the glass gets very smeary whilst using the wipers, not great for night time vision.
I use it on black trim as well as it doesn't dry white and I've also used it on the centre of my steering wheel to get rid of the slight haze which seems to affect lots of Z3s.
Very economical as the less you use the easier and quicker it is to buff off, I can do the whole of the Z in around half an hour.
I use a sponge applicator and buff off with a good quality microfiber cloth.
Dave.
Dave. 1998 Arctic Silver Z3 M44 1.9 Automatic

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